For those of you who think long distance trains should be cut my trip from LA to New York makes me think it's a valuable asset that should be protected and promoted to its fullest extent!Wednesday, June 9, 2004:
I arrived at the airport full of excitement, checked in, said my goodbyes to Mum and my Niece Chelle and headed into the departure lounge. On the way I stopped at the duty free shops and purchased an extra 64mb XD flash card for my camera, wandered aimlessly around searching for a gift for Ed. I finally settled on a set of glass drink coasters. Ed had purchased my bus ticket from Albany to Plattsburgh as I was not able to due to some Greyhound ruling that no overseas people can buy tickets. Also the Duty Free shop gave me a ŅfreeÓ can of butter? that I should have turned down as it gave me trouble on my re-entry to New Zealand... more on that later.
It seemed to take forever for the boarding call, I walked around, took a picture of the plane, a Qantas 747-400. Finally the call was made to board. I made my way down to my seat by the window. I had asked for a window seat as I love to see things get smaller as we gain altitude. Take-off is usually the favourite part for me - I love it! As the plane began to move I realised that there would be nobody sitting beside me. Slowly the huge plane lumbered down toward the runway turned, without pausing the engines screamed and the plane lurched forward gaining speed until that moment when the noise from the undercarriage ceases and the plane dips slightly as it takes flight - Finally after all of the days IÕd been counting down, the plans made and changed the adventure begins!
I had (foolishly) decided that on the day/night before I left I would not sleep as to ensure I would sleep on the plane. I would then be fresh and awake when I approached LA.
If I didnÕt know any better IÕd have sworn that everybody had been paid to stop me from sleeping! Every time I was about to nod off either the person in front or behind would switch on their reading light making a noise that jolted me awake or if not that the plane would hit turbulence. The combined efforts ensured I got no more than 3 hours of broken sleep!
However given the fact I was awake to see a 3/4 moon casting its light onto a sheet of white cloud and billions of stars above I didnÕt mind too much - this was an adventure for me and I was determined that nothing would stop me enjoying what I was experiencing - IÕve gone without sleep before no big deal!
I then also managed to wake after an hour or so sleep to catch the sunrise of the type IÕm sure inspired Don Henley to sing ŅitÕs another tequila sunriseÓ. As it got lighter the cloud became more visible and it looked like a huge field with small bushes covered in snow - it really was beautiful to watch.
I noted the plane was travelling at 605mph which is a lot faster than the F1 cars I was to watch in the ensuing adventure. Also I was amazed to see the outside temperature was -67F I wonder how much the plane shrinks and expands in this huge temperature difference?
It was then I saw land for the first time! IÕm here! In the U.S. of A!! We made a series of turns and finally began to descend and I heard/felt the impact of the undercarriage as it hit the tarmac IÕd made it! IÕd not seen the airport as we approached just hills, buildings and a city sky-line.
Getting through customs was fun as my trip was one of constant movement I didnÕt have an address to give them when they asked - when I was told no address no entry! I then gave the address of the motel Terry my friend had booked in Plattsburgh and I was allowed in. PHEW!
I immediately made my way to the arrival room looking for Paolo who was supposed to meet me and ŅshowÓ me around LA and take me to ChallisÕs place in Long Beach. However after 3 hours of waiting and having the lady at reception page him I realised he was not going to show.
I then decided due to my tiredness rather than getting lost in Long Beach looking for Challis myself IÕd head directly to the Amtrak train station known as Union Station and try to contact Challis from there or just wait for the train, I could not miss it if I were at the Station.
I walked out into the warm morning and was informed of a shuttle service that would take me to Union Station. He told me the fee was $15 but asked that I not pay until I was there (probably having something to do with the tip) we here in NZ donÕt tip so it was something IÕd have to get used to.
I boarded the van and we spent maybe 15 minutes as he drove around the airport looking for more customers. Finally he had enough and he headed into the city to drop off his passengers. I got a good ride as he dropped the passengers off at their respective destinations I got to see some of Los Angeles before we arrived at Union Station where I paid him and walked into the station.
Union Station is a beautiful building. It has a restored area that has been used in movies and I made a point of taking some photos. I then checked in my large back pack as it was very heavy and this now meant I only had to look after the small one with my digital and video cameras in. I saw a shop ŅUnion BagelÓ and thought I had to have something there so had a very nice cappacino with a bagel with cream cheese...
After that I tried to phone Challis but unfortunately unknown to me ChallisÕs number was a toll call and you canÕt make toll calls from the station! I then tried to use my credit card but was told Ņyou must use a US credit card - thank you for using AT&TÓ and then I was disconnected! Not a very friendly telephone company!
I then asked a security guard at the front of the building if he knew where there was an internet cafe, he told me 6th and Broadway so I got into a taxi and asked to be taken there. When I got there I found it was very much like an open market with tables with jewellry lining the streets, people trying to sell me DVDÕs of the yet unreleased in New Zealand Shrek2 that I thought were probably ŅbootlegÓ copies!
After examining the shops I could not find any hint of an internet cafe so I decided as the taxi ride was short to walk back to the station. However I soon made a wrong turn and found myself looking at 15 or so people rummaging through rubbish bins looking at me very suspiciously! I did an about face and happened to see a policeman walking so I ŅaccompaniedÓ him to some traffic lights where I caught a taxi and headed back to Union Station.
When I walked in this time the help desk was manned and I asked them if they knew of an internet cafe nearby. I was told by the man there that he did, he then rang them up to ensure they were still there and directed me to the ŅRed LineÓ told me where to get off and up the escalator, across the street and there it would be.
I took my first ride in a subway train went past McCarthur Park! I followed the instructions and found the Internet Cafe! I wrote some emails to my sister, Challis and Terry to let them know what was happening and as it was getting late I thought it better that I meet Challis on the way home.
I then went back to Union Station to wait for the call on the South West Chief. After what IÕd been through since leaving Auckland it was no surprise that I was tired and I nodded off! I donÕt envisage it was much later that a security guard woke me telling me I had to stay awake or IÕd be thrown out or arrested! IÕd like to see her stay awake! IÕm sure it was my snoring! Otherwise sheÕd probably have left me alone!
I then went back to Union Bagel and had some delicious soup and walked around the platforms taking some photos of the trains parked there feeling quite awake.
Finally I hear the call! I collect my checked in bag, only $2 for them looking after my bag! Much better than Chicago will turn out to be! I then headed to the platform, handed the conductor the ticket who seemed to be uncomfortable with the ticket I have and told me the directions to my room and that somebody would be there shortly to check the ticket. IÕm upstairs in room 3 on the right hand side of the train. The room is small but certainly had enough room for me. I put my large back pack downstairs in the luggage rack and kept the small one with me in my room.
Another conductor asked to see my ticket, smiled, took a piece out and said ŅHave a great tripÓ, to which I replied ŅI sure will!Ó . As she spoke I heard her radio report that rooms 11, 12 and 13 are empty also the room opposite me is empty but it appears it has been booked by people who will get on later. I then walked back outside to take some photos of the train. These trains are HUGE, I once joked on the train forum that theyÕre not trains, theyÕre the Empire State Building on wheels! To which the reply came showing that the length of the train is not much shorter than the building!
I then boarded the train as I definitely did not want to see it leave without me! Eight minutes to go by my time and the ŅBuilding on wheelsÓ will begin to move toward Chicago! I took some video of my room and the hallway of the car and plan to take some more tomorrow outside the train but for now I was content to sit in the very comfortable seat and shoot some film as we leave LA.
ŅLast Call!! Visitors please get off!Ó was the call, moments later the whistle/horn sounded with two short blasts and almost silently we moved! Part two of the adventure was underway!
A lady introduced herself as Jenny and said she would be making my bed up later and would Ņlook after meÓ I said Ņthank youÓ and she seemed a little startled by my voice/accent. I told her I was from New Zealand and she said she did not remember meeting any New Zealanders before and as IÕm a person who uses sarcastic humour (probably not always at the best of times!) I told her that TheyÕre not all like me, in fact now that IÕve left the country I might not be let back in! She did not seem to understand my humour and looked at me strangely for the rest of the trip! I must say however she did a good job making the bed and returning the seats in the morning and was none the less very courteous.
I noticed as the train moved off that the ride was very smooth, although this is probably due to the slow speed. Not long after we moved off we stopped and reversed. It seems they connected some extra freight cars.
One thing IÕve observed is IÕve seen more Police and Security Guards in one day than IÕd see in a week in NZ! Also here the Police have guns openly displayed! Police in NZ donÕt carry guns so for me it was a little un-nerving.
Now the car has gone quiet as the air con has shut down and thereÕs no power but we move backwards again and thereÕs a jolt as the train picks up the extra carriages. The power comes back on as does the air con.
My room is a fashion disaster! Orange curtains, bright red head rests, blue with pink seat covers, brown carpet and to top it off beige walls! That shows how long weÕve been motionless for, normally I donÕt do fashion write-ups!!!
Outside the window I can see a building with LA County Sheriff Central Jail - I think IÕll give that a miss thank you very much!
The train lurches forward and now we move in the correct direction and build up speed. I hear a voice on the conductors radio ŅWeÕre rolling - send em in!Ó Probably referring to the dining car - IÕm hungry and tired a bad combo!
I went into the dining car and ordered apple juice and to eat I had the steak with a baked spud and I have to say it was totally delicious! I must have been tired because I have no memory with who I ate with or what I talked about. I do remember going to the viewliner car and as it was dark, too dark for video or pictures so I just watched the scenery go by while constantly pinching myself to make sure I was not dreaming! I saw some huge 18-wheelers and there are so many SUVÕs I canÕt believe anybody could afford to run one given the price of gas lately.
I go back to my room around 9 or 10 and find the comfortable chairs are gone and a BED awaits!!! I then gather my bathroom accessories and head to the shower. ItÕs a small room but the water is hot enough and has adequate if not strong pressure - I go back to my room and shut the door behind and see a curtain - it has been mentioned in the train forum that the curtain presents problems in trying to keep it shut properly to prevent anybody looking in - I found to my surprise that I was able to ŅtuckÓ the curtain edge into the narrow space that the door slides into and it stayed there without any problem. I heard a strange knocking sound coming from the wall and on investigation found a wardrobe with two empty coat hangers jostling around hitting the wall. I removed them and put under the bed and the noise stopped! I noticed Jenny put them back so I had to remove them again the following night! ThereÕs no sleeping with that noise going on in my room!
I then got into bed and tried to go to sleep. I woke often probably because of some bumps and jostling by the car but I felt I had a good sleep when I woke up and decided it was time to get up. I get dressed and walk to the viewliner realising by the darkness outside and lack of people that itÕs still early, I then realised it was only 2am! I was not tired so IÕd have to say maybe I got more sleep at Union station than I thought. Also IÕm going to be jet lagged and pumped up on the excitement of the trip - no matter IÕll watch the world go by from the comfort of the viewliner and to top it off IÕd get to see my 2nd US sunrise!
One funny thing I noted is that the noises coming from the train that I could hear in my room sounded like a steam train chugging. I also think that my sleeping on the right hand side was lucky as when I was in the viewliner sitting on the left side at least 4 trains passed us going the other way with a noise that surely would have waken me with a start!
Out in the distance I can see thousands of lights, must be a city, looks a long way from us and suddenly the train turns toward and we get a bit closer before the train turns away again. ItÕs still to dark to make any detail - perhaps I should have stayed in bed! I had thought when I woke it was around 5am but now itÕs still only 3am! Everything outside goes totally dark and then as if curtains have been pulled back the lights come back.
The train slows and the lights of a town can be seen, we go through slowly, I can see a car sales with a MGB car in the showroom. ThereÕs a small building with the name ŌNoahs ArkÓ. Moments later we move off again but not much further we stop again, the trains so big we have to double stop. Maybe 30 seconds later and weÕre off - I see Kingman on the side of a building that looks like a train station.
Now itÕs 4am and we pass motels all lit up with more huge 18-wheelers parked, I make a note to go to bed later so I donÕt wake up so early tomorrow morning! Again it goes dark outside as if weÕre in a tunnel, my ears ŅpopÓ and the train feels like itÕs coasting. I catch a glimpse of the engines as we turn hard left.
ItÕs starting to get light as I can make out hills and I can see the horizon is a pale grey. we begin to go quite fast and the land around us is flat but I can see big hills not that far away. ThereÕs clumps of small trees, it does not appear that anything grows tall here! I see some derelict buildings with windows smashed out and of all things a pram! How would a pram find its way out here? Maybe it fell of somebodyÕs trailer as thereÕs a road nearby... the view is beautiful though then another freight train scares a weeks life out of me as it thunders the other way.
I donÕt think however that things could be better! I really am in 7th Heaven!.
The train passes through a cutting in the hill and I can see that beneath a shallow layer of soil itÕs all rock, this is probably why the trees donÕt grow so tall.
I just catch what looks like a Buck Deer with huge antlers out of the corner of my eye, by the time IÕve got the digital camera ready to go itÕs gone! The sunrise continues and now thereÕs a warm red glow, another tequila sunrise!
I can see so much land around here that apart from the train tracks and some dirt roads there is no evidence of human activity. The train travels through what looks like a cutting in the hills meaning I can only see rocks either side of me. By the time we get onto flat land again the sun is higher in the sky than I thought it would have been!
6:30am We pull out of Flag Staff. For breakfast I had the omelette with hash brown and coffee. It was delicious, Amtrak are doing a great job here! I have breakfast with a 20 something couple from Seattle - very humourous discussion had, they were quite interested to talk when they found out I was from New Zealand and they were intrigued by my NZ $5 note - I found it difficult to handle the US money, the coins are totally different and all of the notes look the same - I remember being happy when N/Z dropped the $1 & $2 notes from circulation replacing them with the gold coins - America seems to love the $1 note as people seemed to have heaps of them! But I found the colourful NZ$5 note was good to get conversations going if the present company seemed to be quiet.
The trains here are huge in size and length. WhatÕs more is thereÕs heaps of them. At one point we were passed by two trains, one on either side going the other way and then shortly after another! There seems to be an endless chain of freight trains both moving and stationary just out of Flag Staff. One annoying thing was they have carriages with two containers, one on top of the other - often when I was going to take a photo one of these trains would thunder past blocking the view and by the time it had passed the photo opportunity had gone! I counted over 100 cars on one train that had 4 engines on the front and 3 at the back - man these things are big!
The next stop was Gallup where I heard a very irate voice on the PA telling the car attendants to get the smoking passengers back on the train!
Just out of Gallup I heard an almighty noise coming from above me and I then saw two huge helicopters with twin rotors fly over, I managed to photograph one of them even if poorly. IÕve noticed with the digital camera that I have to wait for it to turn on before I can shoot, if I leave it on it goes to sleep meaning I have to turn it off then on again which usually kills any good photo chance. TheyÕre great for taking photos when prepared but it seems the ŅinstantÓ moment is still better suited to a film camera - pity I did not bring one.
The scenery outside the train to me is just beautiful, itÕs as different from the sea views that Auckland, New Zealand has as Greenland is to New York! I loved every minute and have to say was never bored nor could I take my eyes from the scenery unfolding before me. Often we can see a highway and IÕm amazed and the volume of traffic. There is a constant stream of 18 wheelers and I think itÕs little wonder that the price of fuel will have a dramatic impact on the American economy.
As I was having lunch we stop at Albuquerque, turns out we are having lunch an hour early as we change to a different time zone and put the clocks forward. I have a beef burger which maintained the high standard of food I so far have experienced.
I get off the train and make a note that I will buy some of the items for sale on the way back for my nieces as I donÕt want to carry any extra weight until I have to... not until the trip back do I find out what a bad decision IÕd made!. The air is warm and there are no clouds in the sky - just perfect the longer this trip goes the better it gets! I begin to feel tired and was about to fall asleep in the warmth so I go back into the train forcing myself to stay awake so I get to a better sleeping pattern.
I check the images on my camera and delete 8, the camera tells me I can still take another 48 plus IÕve still got time on the video camera. Out the window I see a huge dragon-fly - must have taken steriods!
I decide not to watch the movie ŅRugratsÓ as the best show on the train is going past the windows. It sounds like all the sleepers are occupied. About an hour or two after leaving Alberquerque we pass the SW Chief going to LA. Also it seems that the freight trains have stopped. IÕm really tired now but wonÕt give in as I want to get the sleeping hours right.
We are going slow now and appear to be going uphill all the time. The train is working its way through a narrow space, probably doing only 20mph. The scenery as it has all day is dramatic and beautiful.
We stop for a moment at glorieta - thereÕs a post office with the flag at half mast for the former President Reagan. We now pick up speed and appear to be going down hill. We pass a freight train that appeared to be waiting for us. I was told that Amtrak have to give way to freight but it almost seems like the freight trains are waiting for us. As we turn a corner IÕm amazed to see two Bison grazing... IÕd never thought I actually see any! Luckily I have my camera out, on and shoot managing to capture both of them!
Tea is at 5:30 and IÕll try to go to bed at 8-9 and should wake around 4 or 5. I had stuffed peppers, a bit cold but tasted great. Sat with a married couple who were returning home from their sons wedding. They did not appear to be too happy to be gaining a daughter...LOL However they like most people IÕve met were happy to hear about my trip and NZ.
I went and had a shower and must have missed the tunnel as we are now in Colorado! Not to worry IÕll see the tunnel on the way back home. Small problem that none of the toilets work in my car - I now have to go to the next car and use theirs. I read on the forum that people can queue for toilets upstairs while the ones downstairs are empty... I found this to be true and never had any problems - the info gained from the train forum was certainly helpful in that respect!
The sun is now setting over the green grass of Colorado and it really is time for bed...
I woke suddenly and checked the time - itÕs only 2am! why did wake so early? I decided to go back to sleep when out of the corner of my eye I caught a flashing that appeared to look like an airplanes or police cars light reflecting off the window... it went on for about 3 minutes and I decided to have a look in the direction of the light to see what it was.....
OMG!!!!
The flashes of light turned out to be caused by a storm. There were intense rapid flashes and HUGE forks that arched down then up and down again to touch the ground that lit up the night as day! Multiple forks and flashes so often it looked like a strobe light at a disco!
As we drew closer I could see flash after flash and it was the most intense lightening storm IÕve ever seen! I pulled out my video camera and shot some film of it. We donÕt get storms like this in Auckland, given the coastal nature most weather moves in and out very quickly and I would think the low altitude of the city means we donÕt get many strikes either... it seems only our sky tower gets hit.
I decided to get up and get a coffee to calm my shattered nerves. In the diner there were some staff who made me a coffee (thank you) but told me I had to go back to my room! For the next hour or so I watched with a mix of horror and fascination at the incredible show from nature! It went on for over two and a half hours and when it died down I got back to sleep.
I awoke to find it almost breakfast time and felt like IÕd had a good nights sleep apart from the show! The call for breakfast was heard and I stampeded into the diner feeling very hungry. I had the French Toast (recommended by people on the train forum) and have to say it was excellent. I was joined by 3 others, a retired navy man with his wife and a Woman (very quiet) who was going to Boston. They told me the previous nights storm was certainly not your average storm! That made me feel a little better for being so scared!
After breakfast I went to the viewliner as we crossed what I was told was the Colorado River. So far IÕd have to say IÕm going to recommend this trip to my friends back home as it really is a beautiful trip... people on the train forum say itÕs a bit boring but I never got that... maybe it depends on what youÕre used to, your expectations or how many times youÕve done it.
The final meal on the SW Chief was lunch. This time I had the chicken sandwich and again it was very good. The man next to me is an airline crash inspector his wife is sitting across from us with a diminutive but friendly woman. I didnÕt really want to talk about plane crashes given my yet to be completed flight home!
We make light conversation. We pass a huge paddle steamer that appears to be 4 levels high and then we cross the Mississippi river on a very long bridge... Fantastic! IÕve seen several birds that ŅlookÓ like eagles but IÕm not sure. One of the things I really want to do here is see a real Bald Eagle.
IÕm hoping in Chicago that IÕll have time to contact home and Terry either phone or internet. I hear on a radio ŅClear signal, letÕs go 85Ó and the train picks up speed, we begin to pass commuter stations/trains and before you can say Catherine Zeta Jones I realise we are in Chicago.
We arrive at 4:30 and I now have a 3 hour wait. I try to phone home but the phone company again refuses to take my credit card, call collect or do anything but hang up on me! I still canÕt phone home! I have to wait in the lounge which does not appear to have a/c, itÕs quite hot and full of people seemingly grumpy at the departure delays of their trains. It looks like I wonÕt be able to contact anyone now until I get to Plattsburgh.
A large, very large man sits next to me and asks about the trains and I answer him, he does not appear to understand my NZ accent and says ŅWhat language you speakÕn?Ó and he then walks off while IÕm doing my best not to laugh thinking to myself... ŅI speak two languages sir, English and Bad English!Ó
I think to myself itÕs nice to be not moving for a while, IÕm still buzzing from the lightening show this morning and it seems like a long time ago. IÕm looking forward to seeing the video though!
All in all IÕm really pleased with how the trip has gone, the Chief was awesome, the food excellent, the people very friendly and the scenery awesome and of course the lightening storm was just the best!
The lounge seems to be filling to overflowing yet no trains have been called, itÕs getting hotter and time is seriously dragging! Still I pinch myself! Am I REALLY in Chicago? I go for a walk outside... Yup! IÕm here!
Finally the call is made and I board the train. This train the Lake Shore Limited is a single level one but I have to say the rooms are better than the SW Chief. It has a sink and a toilet and although it sounds off putting whatever chemicals used prevent any unfortunate odours and is quite useful.
IÕm still not 100% settled with my sleeping and probably wonÕt be till I get home but I really donÕt care - apart from the hold up in Chicago I could not imagine things being much better.
By the time we moved out it was too dark for photos and I hope I can get some on the way back from Indianapolis to catch the SW Chief back to LA.
For dinner I had the steak that was up to standards and enjoyed the company of 3 New Yorkers who were not only interested in NZ but howled with laughter when they heard I only had a day in NY! ŅYou gonna see NY in one day??? they howled! Given the available leave I had it was the best I could do after all I do have to have a reason to come back donÕt I?
The train when on smooth tracks really has a brilliant ride but given we were late it appears to catch up time they went a bit faster than normal resulting in a very rough ride and a broken nights sleep but I did manage to get more sleep than on the Chief and awoke feeling good. I utilised the sink for a ŅtowelÓ bath and managed to wash my hair without making a mess.
Feeling human again I went to the dining car where I had the omelette (my favourite of all the breakfasts IÕd had) and was joined by two new people from New York 40 something and we talked for what seemed like hours, the staff did not seem in any hurry to move us on. I catch glimpses of what I can only imagine is one of the great lakes and when questioned it turns out to be Lake Eyrie. We continue to roll through lush vegetation with small rivers and crops as far as the eye could see.
We stop in Rochester, unusual buildings - get some photos and fill up my first 64mb card and now on 2nd, IÕm glad I bought the 2nd at the airport! It seems every time I put the camera down or turn it off a great photo opportunity prevents itself, then before I can do anything itÕs gone or blocked by some tall trees.
It really is beautiful country here, very green, small and big houses with basketball hoops and strangely more often than not for the entire rail journey from LA there as been a car, usually a Camaro or some two door GM car decaying in the back yard. DonÕt they trade their cars in here?
The ride seems smoother now and we donÕt seem to be going too fast. I had lunch with one of the people I had dinner with the previous night and he didnÕt fail to poke good humour about my trip. There was also a university professor who told me heÕd spent time in NZ it was such a good conversation between us I completely forgot what I had! Although It must have been good. We stop at Schnectady, my original destination had not the Adirondack schedule been changed.
It turns out the train is 2 hours late and I stand a good chance of missing my bus and could have to wait another 4 hours for the next one. When we get to Albany we are not allowed to get off as firstly the people at the front have to get off (If IÕd known that then I would have walked to the front) and the train had to be separated into two different trains. I was really beginning to get worried when finally the train moved up to the platform and I was allowed off. I said goodbye to the friends IÕd made and hurriedly walked outside where I was able to take a taxi who took me to the bus station.
Will post the return journey from Indy to Chicago back to LA later... that trip was more "fun" than this one!!!
I love the SW Chief!
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