posted
After my SW trip this spring, I have decided to split up my other two western trips as well--I hope to take the Zephyr out and back, and the Empire Builder out and back, in separate trips. To be able to afford this, I will need to travel mainly coach on the Zephyr, and go only as far as Salt Lake City (I've been to San Francisco before, back when I used to fly). I have these questions:
1. The first lap would be going coach from Albany to Chicago on the Lakeshore Limited. It's overnight but under 20 hours so I think it's doable for me in coach if I bring pillows etc. But with the new one-hour-later schedule going into effect in April, do you think I will have trouble making the connection to the Zephyr in Chicago? I'd rather not shell out money for a Chicago hotel if I don't have to. If I have to, what is your recommendation for a hotel near the train station--need not be luxurious just comfortable and safe.
2. If I don't overnight in Chicago and I miss my connection, what is Amtrak's policy vis-a-vis the Zephyr? Will they get me on the train next day? What if that is sold out? Should I just check with them???
3. I have two options with the Zephyr--use my Guest Rewards points for a sleeper, in which case I'd go all the way to Salt Lake City, or go coach again (esp if I overnight in Chicago). I want to stop in Denver on the way BACK, but I don't think I can go all the way in coach to Salt Lake City. So, here's my first really important question: if I do the coach option, which stop do you recommend I make? The closer to Denver, the better, timewise in coach, but I want to see the best scenery so I don't want to get off before that. And I need a place where I can overnight in a hotel near the train station, eat, and see some things without renting a car. And of course the hotel once again needs to be safe and comfortable and not too expensive.
4. What hotel do you recommend in Salt Lake City? I expect to get in late at night, see the sights (again, no car) next day, stay one more night, and then leave.
5. I will come back coach from Salt Lake City to Denver and am resigned to higher hotel costs there, though I will also visit a friend much of the time and save on hotels that way! Still, I will need to stay in a hotel at least on the night of my arrival. I already have your recommendations for Denver hotels but if anyone has any more comments on that score, feel free to make them.
6. I will come home coach in two laps from Denver. I will stay with a relative in the Chicago area going EB so won't worry about the hotel.
7. Here are my other really important questions: Is this trip too hot in August? Weatherwise and lightwise, is it OK in September? Is it still doable in October? Or will it get dark too early and/or be too snowy to risk the Zephyr in the Rockies? What about early November--way too late? What about if I wait for next spring? I presume March is too early? Is April too early? How about May?
Thank you all for the info
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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3. So, here's my first really important question: if I do the coach option, which stop do you recommend I make? The closer to Denver, the better, timewise in coach, but I want to see the best scenery so I don't want to get off before that. And I need a place where I can overnight in a hotel near the train station, eat, and see some things without renting a car. And of course the hotel once again needs to be safe and comfortable and not too expensive.
5. I will come back coach from Salt Lake City to Denver and am resigned to higher hotel costs there, though I will also visit a friend much of the time and save on hotels that way! Still, I will need to stay in a hotel at least on the night of my arrival. I already have your recommendations for Denver hotels but if anyone has any more comments on that score, feel free to make them.
7. Here are my other really important questions: Is this trip too hot in August? Weatherwise and lightwise, is it OK in September? Is it still doable in October? Or will it get dark too early and/or be too snowy to risk the Zephyr in the Rockies? What about early November--way too late? What about if I wait for next spring? I presume March is too early? Is April too early? How about May?
Wow........the exercise of planning a trip maximizing those guest reward points is almost as fun as the trip itself. I'm sitting here doing the same thing on a snowy day in Western North Carolina.
I have a little input for the items I have left above from your original post-
For number 3 I'd suggest you look at Glenwood Springs, CO as a possible stopover. The train station is right downtown and incredibly near the interstate. I don't know the hotel situation there but being so near the interstate you might find a comparitively reasonable Comfort Inn kind of place. I doubt that you'll find something as low as your hoping for though. In some places where I have looked into stopover expenses, it's actually cheaper to rent a car and drive oneself to an outlying Red Roof Inn or something than to pay the price of a downtown hotel. I don't expect that to be the case in Glenwood Springs though.
Number 5 - In downtown Denver there is a Comfort Inn about 10 blocks from the Amtrak Station. It is probably going to be the least costly hotel in the downtown area. It's on 17th street I think and you can get a free downtown shuttle bus from near the train station which goes up 16th street, one block away from the Comfort Inn. I stayed there coming off train 6 last June for about $80.00, a special rate that I booked using Expedia. There are folks who are fond of the LaQuinta near Union Station and there is the Red Lion adjacent to Mile High Stadium (just off the light rail) BUT that's far more posh than LaQuinta or Comfort Inn.
One thing I would like to know about Denver is whether there are any hotels located within a block or two of any of the light rail stations. Anyone know? That would open some potentially more reasonable hotels in the Denver area to rail travelers.
Question 7 is relative. Too hot for you would differ from what would be too hot for my wife who grew up in Florida. I would think that August or September would be fine though. If you're hoping to remove any possibility of snow in the Rockies from a spring trip though, I wouldn't dream of trying it before May. I don't travel to that part of the country often BUT I have twice experienced snow while aboard trains even in June.......once on the Georgetown Loop tourist railroad and just this past June on the detoured eastbound California Zephyr in Evanston, WY.
Hope my thoughts help and that other suggestions will be coming too. You never know when something really helpful in planning the next trip will appear!
------------------ David Pressley
[This message has been edited by notelvis (edited 01-29-2005).]
[This message has been edited by notelvis (edited 01-29-2005).]
Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
2. Amtrak will put you up at their expense at a hotel of their choice (rated 3* I think, but quality-wise I'd say 2*). Some cash for taxis and food. If the next day's train is sold out, they might make other arrangements like Greyhound (shudder). As a last resort, you might even fly. Point is, if they allow you to book that connection, then they're bound to help you if it all goes wrong.
3. I'd agree with David and suggest Glenwood Springs. I stayed there a couple of years ago. Everything is within walking distance of the station, or there are courtesey buses, for example to go river rafting. Go in the hot springs swimming pool - you'll feel rejuvinated! Bear in mind the altitude though, you'll burn more easily from the sun.
Hotels are reasonably priced although I can't remember the exact figures. There are a few eateries.
5. I've stayed in the Executive Tower Hotel - sit in the jacuzzi or pool and watch the sun set over the Rockies - fantastic! A little ragged at the edges but ok. It's a block from the free bus service that goes up and down the pedestrianised bit.
7. Date - how long is a piece of string? May was a pleasent time for me, not too hot, not too busy, but dry.
Hope that helps!
Geoff M.
Posts: 2426 | From: Apple Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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posted
I'd suggest a stopover in Grand Junction. There's a Hilton there that's moderately priced, and they'll probably pick you up from the train station.
As to time of year, I'd go for maxiumum daylight since the trip through Colorado is absolutely gorgeous. Going west, you'll miss Soldier Summit, and coming back east, it will be dark as you exit the Moffat Tunnel. But you'll see both in daylight in the other direction.
Anyway, I'd make the trip in mid-June. There may still be snow at the higher elevations, and you'll have maximum daylight.
I don't generally recommend Amtrak to non-railfans, but #5 and #6 are the most scenic rail trip in the U.S., so I'll suggest people try it, understanding that neither service quality nor on-time performance will be stellar.
Have a good trip!
Posts: 614 | From: Merchantville, NJ. USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
I have another question: I am not married to the idea of Salt Lake City; the main reason I planned to go that far west is because someone told me the train between Denver and Salt Lake City is the prettiest run in the US. But do I actually need to go that far west? Or is the really pretty part between Denver and something closer? For example, if I go only as far as Glenwood Springs, would I miss a lot? Because I think if I go to Glenwood Springs, I can take a short bus ride to Aspen, which I'd also like to see, so maybe I should do that instead, and forget Salt Lake City. Or what about going just as far west as Grand Junction, is that far enough to see the really fine Rocky scenery? Thanks
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
The trip to Aspen from Glenwood Springs is much more scenic than the trip on to Grand Junction. Between Denver and GS you will have seen the most picturesque portion of the Rockies that can be seen from the Zephyr
There are wonderful natural hot springs near the depot in GS and in addition to the trip to Aspen I recommend these which are available in a swimming pool that can be seen from the tracks.
Posts: 467 | From: Prescott, AZ USA | Registered: Mar 2002
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quote:Originally posted by RRCHINA: The trip to Aspen from Glenwood Springs is much more scenic than the trip on to Grand Junction. Between Denver and GS you will have seen the most picturesque portion of the Rockies that can be seen from the Zephyr
There are wonderful natural hot springs near the depot in GS and in addition to the trip to Aspen I recommend these which are available in a swimming pool that can be seen from the tracks.
Agreed. Not that Salt Lake City isn't interesting but if you're primary objective is to view the scenery from the train by daylight you will find the Denver-Glenwood Springs segment most scenic.
------------------ David Pressley
Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
I disagree -- I believe the entire route between Denver and Salt Lake City is one of the most scenic segments on the AMTRAK system (2nd and 3rd place are the EB between Glacier Park and Seattle/Portland and the CS along the Pacific Ocean in southern Cal. and through the Cascades of Oregon).
After Glenwood, the CZ continues to follow the Colorado River all the way to the Utah-Colorado state line and you pass through some very pretty canyons. In Utah, the desert scenery is just as interesting and varied, in my opinion, but the closer you get to SLC, the scenery gives way to urbanization and industrialization.
Posts: 2428 | From: Grayling, MI | Registered: Mar 2002
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posted
I beg to differ as well! Anybody who thinks Soldier Summit is *not* scenic has never been over it in daylight. I've hi-railed the Gilluly Loops, and I'll never forget the experience.
Also, Ruby Canyon is west of Glenwood, and it may be the most scenic of all the canyons the railroad follows.
By all means, do the RT to Salt Lake City, and be in the lounge shortly after departure eastbound.
Posts: 614 | From: Merchantville, NJ. USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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WB, Soldier Summit is nothing to write home about. It is really cool, though, as an early morning look out the window from your bed in a sleeper.
EB, going through Moffat Tunnel at dark and then making that first turn to see Denver spread out in front of you is a wonderful night shot!
John
------------------ The City of Saint Louis (UP, 1967) is still my standard for passenger operations
posted
Desert to one man is wasteland; to another a vast vista. Mountains to another man are claustraphobic monsters blocking the sun; to another stunning scenery. In other words, each to their own.
But in any case, east of Grand Junction is probably the best 250 miles of the route overall. And that coming round the mountainside and seeing Boulder and Denver in the distance, and a couple of thousand feet lower, is awesome! I've done it in daylight, at night, and going through a layer of cloud at night with the moon shining off the top of the clouds. Several miles later and we were below it - which goes to show how steep that section of line is (1 in 50 or 2% ruling gradient).
One thing to consider if you were to go to SLC on one train and straight back on the other: lateness may mean stopping short of SLC at some remote station in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night... what IS Provo like?
Geoff M.
Posts: 2426 | From: Apple Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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posted
Ah, wilderness! Geoffm, I gather from some of your comments that you're a Brit, so I'll forgive you.
Provo is actually quite a large suburb of Salt Lake City, home to Corel Corporation (software) and others. It sits at the south end of a delta of flat, rich farmland between the Wahsatch Mountains and the lake. You won't find any Indians (or cowboys, either, any more) in Provo.
Now Thompson, UT is another story...stopped there to use the phone during my hi-rail trip (no cell towers nearby). Thompson defines "remote".
Posts: 614 | From: Merchantville, NJ. USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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quote:Originally posted by rresor: I beg to differ as well! Anybody who thinks Soldier Summit is *not* scenic has never been over it in daylight. I've hi-railed the Gilluly Loops, and I'll never forget the experience.
Also, Ruby Canyon is west of Glenwood, and it may be the most scenic of all the canyons the railroad follows.
By all means, do the RT to Salt Lake City, and be in the lounge shortly after departure eastbound.
Differing Accepted! I certainly did not mean to suggest that Soldier Summit was not worth the effort. Just seemed that time, distance, and budget were issues to the original poster.
I do believe that going only as far as Glenwood, if that's what the rider is able to do, is sufficient to enjoy and appreciate the Zephyr Experience. Soldier Summit is great and so is the ride over Donner.
------------------ David Pressley
Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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The following link has some pics - from the train and trackside - of this piece of heaven best experienced from a train.
I have many pics from Utah that I still need to add to the site.
I second the previous poster's opinion of eastern Utah. It is great in the morning light around Thistle. There are canyons, rivers and tunnels. An absolute delight.
I took a RT on the CZ to California this summer. Was a great trip.
A year ago, I took a three-day weekend trip from Kansas City to Salt Lake and back - via Osceola, Iowa. I arrived Salt Lake around Midnight and waited for the EB - which was early - which arrived around 2:00 a.m.
The eastern Utah scenery - as well as Ruby Canyon and the rest of the Rockies - were superb. Highly recommended.
posted
Yes, I may be a Brit, but I do have something like 16,000 Amtrak miles under my belt! I've been on all the long distance western trains and most of the eastern trains. The only bits I'm missing are LA to San Francisco, Portland to Spokane, Orlando to Miami and Tampa, Boston to Albany, the Three Rivers and The Pennsylvanian. Six straight days in coach too!
I've also been east into Denver three times. My last ettempt to actually go *west* out of Denver failed miserably when a coal train sideswiped another train and closed the line for a few days!
Yes, the whole CZ route is great, but I do agree with David if that the time spent in coach is minimised (as point #3) and scenery maximised, then stopping in Colorado would be the best bet.
Geoff M.
Posts: 2426 | From: Apple Valley, CA | Registered: Sep 2000
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