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This is my report from my return trip to DC):
I arrived in Whitefish by bus from my hometown of Livingston at 11:25 am on January 5th. Since my departure on the westbound Empire Builder wasnt until 9:15, I had some time on my hands. I spent some of the time in the small museum/giftshop in the train station. It was somewhat interesting, with a small amount of railroad souvenirs and a model train. I also spent some time taking pictures of passing freight trains and the train station. Late in the afternoon I took a free shuttle bus up to Big Mountain ski resort, checked out the shops and the people skiing, etc. Finally I went to the library near the station to do some reading and visited a small deli/grocery store to stock up on food for my journey.
27 arrived just about 10 minutes late or so, and I was off. At spokane I got off the train and watched them break up the train into the two parts, one going on to Seattle and mine to Portland.
On the ride to Portland, I went to the sightseer lounge and discovered that one can look out of the window and see above the engine. Actually, I remember someone on this forum talking about this. Talk about pretty cool. Almost like being in a dome car. I spent a good two-three hours looking out of that window, much of it in the early hours approx 4 am, so I was the only one in the car. (otherwise other passengers would have thought i was nuts, but who cares right?). I really enjoyed that view. Im going to take this train again just so I can experience that again!
27 arrived in Portland just about on time, so I had about 4 hours to kill. I walked around near the willamette river, and watched trains crossing the steel bridge and took some photos. There was a slight rain (when it it NOT raining in Portland in the winter?) but not too much.
14 departed Portland just a few minutes late and I was off again. I considered myself fortunate to have made the connection in Portland and I just hoped that my good fortune would continue at Sacramento. For some reason, this train did not have a sightseer lounge car. They used one of the coach cars as a lounge car, (the cafe was downstairs in the area usually used for baggage/handicapped passengers). As the train headed south, it lost more and more time, but thankfully arrived in Sacramento about 9:30 am, with an hour and a half to spare for my connection to the Zephyr.
I spent the first few minutes of my layover chatting with a friend I made on the train, then I set out to find the California Railroad museum. At first I took the wrong path (above the railroad tracks along the road) then realized that the museum was below the highway. I walked around old sacramento a bit and checked out the museum's bookshop. Ok ok, now Ill hear it from my fellow railfans---I did not actually go inside the museum. I figured that since it costed $6 dollars and that I only had 30 minutes to go inside that I would pass this time. I figured i might get so engrossed in what I saw that I would miss my next train. True, if the museum was free, I would have went in, but thats just how I am. Ill make it a point to visit Sacramento in the future, pay the 6 bucks, and spend many hours inside.
I waited on the platform at the station for the zephyr to arrive. Then there was a delay, and the train didnt actually get there until almost noon. Geez, if I had known it would be late, Id have gone inside the museum!!
The Zephyr trip was great. I enjoyed passing through Roseville and seeing one of the largest freight yards in the country. I got a seat in the sightseer lounge car for the trip over the Sierra Nevadas. As we were making our ascent, a group of Remaxx Real Estate agents entered the lounge. They were traveling in their own superliner coach car (which didnt have sightseer or anything written on the side, wonder if this specific car is used for private groups?). These Remax folks seemed to be traveling to Reno for the weekend. Since all of the seats in the upper level of the lounge car were taken, they congregated in the middle of the car. They turned it all into their own private party with loud, obscene commentary. (they should have left the alcohol at home). I thought it would only last for 5-10 minutes but they just wouldnt leave. They were so loud no one could hear the commentary being provided by the california state railroad museum volunteer guides. Because of this and because my coach seat was on the side of the train facing Donner lake, I went back to my seat. I enjoyed the rest of the ride over the sierra's from there.
We stopped in Reno at the new station below ground level. This might be great for eliminating train traffic in the downtown area, but it makes it less appealing to a train traveler. Couldnt really see the casinos too much.
After a night crossing Nevada and stopping in Salt Lake City, I ate breakfast in the lounge car and got ready to see eastern Utah and Colorado. We passed a Utah Railways train (didnt know there was a Utah Railways). As we passed through Ruby Canyon, the conductor pointed out the utah-colorado state line. On the ride to Denver we saw numerous bald eagles, big horn sheep, and foxes. I was impressed by the hot springs in Glenwood Springs. Makes me want to stop there like Teddy Roosevelt did so many years ago!
We traveled through the rockies and reached winter park just as it got dark. As we decended the east slope of the rockies, the lights of Denver could be seen spread out everywhere. What a night view! We arrived in Denver just about on time, maybe 20 minutes late or so.
The ride the rest of the way to Chicago was fairly uneventful (but every minute spent on a train is fun, for that matter). We arrived in Chicago about an hour late, with plenty of time to make my connection to the Capitol Limited.
During the layover, I thought about getting a meal from one of the eateries on the upper level of union station. Nothing looked appealing however. One thing that disturbed me is everywhere I went, as soon as I stopped I would be bombarded with (welcome welcome, can i take your order, etc, the chinese place was particulary bad). One of my pet peeves is going to a fast food joint and the staff doing this. (I like to look at the menu before I order, thank you). So i skipped the whole joint and decided to get some exercise. I walked around downtown and visited Walgreens. While there, I bought a loaf of bread and some peanut butter to make sandwiches (much healthier and cheaper than the train). I got back just in time for the first boarding of #30.
#30 left Chicago almost exactly on time, and arrived in Pittsburgh just on time (maybe even 5-10 minutes early). I had three hours to kill before connecting to the Penssylvanian. People told me that downtown Pittsburgh is safe at night, and because I like exploring, I set out from the station to have a look. I walked down by the river and checked out PNC Park, the baseball stadium of the Pirates. As I am a sports fan, this was very interesting. Lucky for me one gate was open and I was able to go inside and view the field! Boy what a beautiful park, even at 6 in the morning!
#42 departed Pittsburgh on time. I made sure to sit on the right side, the side which I was told would be best for viewing Horseshoe Curve. Horsehoe curve was fairly interesting. Nothing jaw dropping, but fun. I didnt realize it was actually two curves, and that it had such a change in elevation.
We arrived in Harrisburg 25 minutes early, so I had some extra time to check out the station. I am sure glad for the time, because the station is somewhat impressive. Has a very old look and feel inside (I guess because its old). An old GG1 electic locomotive can be seen as well.
The trip through Amish country went too fast. It was the first time I saw Amish farms, and I didnt see too much. Did see some of them using horses to plow their fields. One guy even stood up and waved at the train! (wish I had a photo of that!).
Arrived in Philly on time and I had an uneventful two hour layover before connecting to a regional and arriving in DC about approximately 6:40 pm. What a trip--im sure Ill have more to add when I think of it in the days ahead.
Posts: 416 | From: St. Albans, Vermont | Registered: Feb 2003
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I was particularly interested in what the ride through Reno was like now with the newly opened line below street level.
As for Sacramento.......I agree. Paying to go inside the museum for less than two or three hours just isn't worth it. Like you, I've done just a bookstore stop while waiting for the eastbound Zephyr! I then made it a point to go back and see the museum.....highly recommend when one is catching the Zephyr the next day!
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Thanks for the report, Jim. I took the Capitol Ltd, Zephyr, Coast Starlight, and Empire Builder out of Portland in the other direction last August, and reading your descriptions brought back so many memories. I was glued to the windows too, and lucky on connections.
I was on the Pennsylvanian 2-3 years ago, and hearing what you did and saw brought back memories in that regard as well. How lucky you were to be able to see the Pirates' stadium--I went to a game there (they were playing the Cubs!) and really enjoyed the spectacular view of the river. Pittsburgh is quite pretty now, a great geographical location. . . ,
I really liked the Horseshoe Curve and Amish country too, but now I wish I'd gotten out to see Harrisburg Station!!!
Thanks for the great trip report. So glad your connections all worked smoothly. I'm taking off myself soon for Florida--hope I am lucky again too.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Horseshoe curve, like a lot of "famous" items of scenery in the northeast are somewhat, and for a few a lot, over rated apparently mainly because they are accesible to large numbers of people including lots of the people that write and get published due to their location. When you consider the miles long horseshoe just east of Donner Pass, the one in Pennsylvania is barely noticible as a feature. There are also multiple horseshoes on the line to Asheville between Old Fort and Ridgecrest, North Carolina. Historically, the Pennsylvania curve was spectacular primarily for the huge number of trains that go over it.
The primary purpose of any railroad anywhere building horseshoe curves is to make changes of elevation at reasonable grades in a limited straight line distance.
Posts: 2808 | From: Olive Branch MS | Registered: Nov 2002
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you are quite right, George. There were other freight trains going around the curve when my train went around it. Just knowing the history behind it made it more interesting though. I read somewhere that the nazis planned to bomb it in WW II if they ever were to hit US territory.
Posts: 416 | From: St. Albans, Vermont | Registered: Feb 2003
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1)I didnt notice any difference on the Empire Builder. What upgrade?
2) two amish people paid cash on board for their tickets from ohio to cumberland md. The fare was supposed to be 106 dollars. the conductor said "ill cut you a ticket for 100". Wonder if he simply pocketed the money?
Posts: 416 | From: St. Albans, Vermont | Registered: Feb 2003
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Or is it possible that it was easier for the conductor to cut the ticket for a nice even $100.00 and not have to worry about 6 extra bucks?
Posts: 171 | From: Aurora, Illinois | Registered: Jun 2005
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well it makes me suspicious since amtrak has standard fare prices. the price is the price, i dont think the conductor should be able to decide. and i think 100 bucks made it easier for him to just pocket the money.
Posts: 416 | From: St. Albans, Vermont | Registered: Feb 2003
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quote:Originally posted by George Harris: There are also multiple horseshoes on the line to Asheville between Old Fort and Ridgecrest, North Carolina.
A very nice ride here. I was fortunate to get a number of rides up and down Old Fort Mountain between 1975 and the cessation of the Norfolk Southern steam excursion program in 1994.
Also in Western North Carolina there is a nice horseshoe just west of Bryson City, NC on the Great Smoky Mountains Scenic Railroad and a number of great horseshoes (called 'the Blue Ridge Loops') on the old Clinchfield Railroad (now CSX) between Marion and Spruce Pine. I was very fortunate to have ridden one of the Clinchfield Steam Specials up the loops in the mid-1970's.........oh I shudder to think at how much I would pay for the opportunity to take that ride again.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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