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For anyone who is interested, here's a recap of my recent trip on the Empire Builder from Edmonds, WA to Chicago (Glenview actually)...
Two words... Spectacularly Spectacular! We started our adventure by walking the 3 miles from our house in Edmonds to the station. The weather was glorious and since we knew there would be much sitting in the next few days, we welcomed the chance for a nice walk. I was traveling with a good friend who had never ridden the route before, so it's hard to say which one of us was more excited! Left Edmonds right on time and enjoyed a wonderful dinner traveling through the beauty of the Cascades and chatting with new friends, an Australian couple who had just arrived for a month long "no itenarary" tour of North America. They had just finished a trans-Canada trip and were very excited about their next adventure on the Builder. Such a kind, fun "bring on the next adventure" type of couple... just the kind of people who make riding the train such a fun experience. We plan to keep in touch with them via email to hear all about their other adventures.
Awoke the next morning to a glorious sunny, blue sky day. Glacier was jaw-droppingly beautiful, so we made great use of seats in the observation car. We stayed there most of the day, finding beauty in the mountains as well as the flat lands. The Builder made a few smoke/walk stops in Montana and we were surprised to find that Montana was more balmy than Edmonds! It was a great day and I loved every minute of it. I had a Sudoku book with me, but did I even open it? No.
The next day (our last) began with snow flurries that quickly turned into real snow off and on thoughtout Minnesota and Wisconsin. It was a beautiful wet snow that clung to the trees, but didn't hinder travel. We felt like we'd lucked into a 4-Seasons kind of travel experience!
But alas, all great things must come to an end. We needed to get to O'Hare for our respective flights home, so we hopped off at Glenview and grabbed a taxi (thank you Henry K. for the great suggestion). We did make a slight detour to take an elderly woman home... she was standing there in the pouring snow, so we asked her to come share our cab. What an experience it was to go from 2 days of sheer train riding bliss to the chaos of O'Hare in the blink of an eye... maybe several blinks as we did have to navigate a Chicago rush hour in pouring rain/slow.
We arrived at O'Hare with plenty of time to spare for our flights, so we walked and walked and walked to stretch our legs after days of hard work work sitting and observing. Finally it was time to part ways, back to Seattle for my friend Hutch, on to Knoxville for me to see my family. Hutch flew off to Seattle without incident and I proceeded to sit in O'Hare for the next 10 hours because of a broken plane. Yes, it sucked, but I spent all those hours sitting alone in a quiet corner, eyes closed, visulizing Montana from the train. Give me a train any day, even if the carpet is worn and the doors rattle at night.
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Did the opposite trip last week - from Chicago to Seattle. Snatched a fabulous bargain of $ 327 with a roomette. There were snow flurries in North Dakota and Montana. We were 1 1/2 hours late up to the Idaho border due to signal problems, but arrived in SEA 10 minutes early. In my opinion, the section of the trip from Wenatchee, WA to Seattle was the most scenic. The passenger load was light, so the service in the dining car was excellent. Our lounge car attendant was the singing "Miss Oliver" who should have been on Broadway, but wound up on Amtrak. The ride was rougher than I was used to on my favorite route (the Zephyr), but I slept better than at home. Visited Port Angeles, WA, and Victoria, BC (a great city). Flew down to LA. Had lunch for the first time in the famous Phillipe's, and took the Southwest Chief to ABQ. Flew back home to Connecticut from there. My friends think I'm nuts, but there's something about a train.
Posts: 133 | From: Canaan, CT | Registered: Dec 2004
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Thank you so much for the excellent trip report, Seattle Shue. Your observation car, 3-mile walk, and undone sodukus all sound very familiar (I'm a big walker too) and made me feel like I was making another trip myself. I have a question about Glenview: Are taxis always available there, or is it better to book one?
Russ, your trip sounds excellent too. If you've never done it, try the return on the EB from Portland some time too, the ride down the Columbia Gorge is exquisitie. I loved Victoria too when I was there--how did you get there? What is Port Angeles like? Did you stay there overnight some place?
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Sojourner - Glad you enjoyed the trip report. It is fun to write about a great adventure, almost feels like you're living it again.
Henry Kisor made the original suggestion to catch a cab from Glenview, saying that many meet the Builder, but it's also possible to reserve one. We called the 303 Taxi Co. and made a reservation for 3:30pm hoping that we would arrive on time. We were right on time and they called 5 minutes prior to our arrival to confirm that our taxi was waiting. It couldn't have been easier and wasn't terribly expensive (split between the 2 of us) - $29 plus tip. Here's a link to the 303 Taxi website...
I agree about the ride through the Columbia Gorge being out of this world. That's definitely on my to-do AGAIN list!
Posts: 31 | From: Seattle, WA | Registered: Apr 2006
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quote:Originally posted by Mike Smith: Tzena & I are heading for Seattle on June 18 and plan on taking the ferry from downtown Seattle to Victoria Island.
Mr. Smith, be sure to have the Canadian Pacific Prime Rib in the 'Princess'' Main dining Salon during your sailing.......
.....whoops, that was another life.
Posts: 9976 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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quote:Originally posted by Seattle Shue: Sojourner - Glad you enjoyed the trip report. It is fun to write about a great adventure, almost feels like you're living it again.
Henry Kisor made the original suggestion to catch a cab from Glenview, saying that many meet the Builder, but it's also possible to reserve one. We called the 303 Taxi Co. and made a reservation for 3:30pm hoping that we would arrive on time. We were right on time and they called 5 minutes prior to our arrival to confirm that our taxi was waiting. It couldn't have been easier and wasn't terribly expensive (split between the 2 of us) - $29 plus tip. Here's a link to the 303 Taxi website...
I agree about the ride through the Columbia Gorge being out of this world. That's definitely on my to-do AGAIN list!
Thanks for the great trip report. Have you been keeping up on the latest news about your Volunteers and Chris Lofton? What a courageous and inspiring story.
I have considered on a future trip flying to Portland, taking the Portland section of the Empire Builder to the Izaak Walton Inn for a couple of nights, and then returning via Seattle on the Empire Builder and Cascades.
All of this for a chance at Sunset on the Columbia River.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Nice to hear from you again David. Yes, the Lofton story is really something, hu? I can't imagine how he must have felt enduring all that criticism while dealing with such a scary health situation. I wish him nothing but good health and a successful pro career.
I hope that your plan to see a sunset on the Columbia River works out someday. It truly is a spectacular ride. If you've never been to Portland, then I would suggest trying to spend a few days there beforehand if time permits. It's a wonderful city that's easy to explore on foot and with public transportation. Let me know if you ever make it to Seattle... I'll feed you fresh Dungenness crab til you pop!
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I thought that Crab was a Baltimore thing. Seattle too?
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Mike, Make sure you reserve your ticket on the Victoria Clipper in advance; the boats do fill up in season, from what I saw (2 years ago). Also, there was a Triple A discount, when I got my ticket (I called their toll free number and bought it; I don't recall their refund policy but luckily I didn't need it). Also, when I took it, there were a few different boats a day, of different sizes; I liked taking the bigger one as it is less choppy sailing. All the boats were catamarans for passengers only, not the really big car ferries like the one you would take if you went from Victoria to Vancouver (you take a bus, then a ferry, to get to Vancouver; if you do that, you can take Amtrak back south to Seattle in a triangle if you have time). I'm sure you'll love Victoria; it's a splendid place that handles it's tourists quite well. Others here encouraged me to go and I'm so glad they did!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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What's the name of the seafood market there? Pike Place? Oh yeah...crabs and isn't salmon BIG there too?
I LONG for a trip like this Shue! The Empire Builder is the only LD train West of CHI I have not yet done. My retirement trip is going to be Starlight LA to Seattle...overnight in Seattle. Take the EB from Seattle to Chicago...then the CONO from CHI to NOL..a night or two in NOL...then the Crescent from NOL to NYP...with at least one night in Manhattan...then fly back home to California. By my estimations it will take 10 days. I'm just hoping the trains are still around in another 30 years (when I'm eligible for retirement) LOL. EVERY PERSON I KNOW THINKS I'M NUTS!
Posts: 387 | From: Bakersfield, CA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Mr. Maniac, rather than wait 30 years to ride the Builder, why not take a trip to Glacier and do one direction through Columbia River Gorge. East of Glacier the scenery doesn't change much anyway.
Posts: 1572 | From: St. Paul, MN | Registered: Dec 2002
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It's called Pike Place Market, http://www.pikeplacemarket.org There used to be an excellent little restaurant, a little hard to find on the 3rd floor of the MArket, called Matts in the Mkt, 94 Pike St at 1st Av, Suite 32, but last time I was in Seattle it was closed for expansion, and my guess is the prices expanded as well (but they would be better at lunch), phone is 206-467-7909.
I liked walking along the bay from Alaska Way up past Pike's Place Market and esp then up past that hotel where the Beatles stayed & caught a fish from the winow, on up the new strip built I think with donations from the Gates's (after the icky highway is gone)--and it's along the freight line too. I also liked going through Freeway Park (accessible from the Washington State Convention Center) to First Hill (Pill Hill). My other favorite things in Seattle are not downtown, though easily accessible by public bus--the Fremont troll (under the bridge) and the Ballard locks. I also loved taking the Eliot Bay Water Taxi (from Alaska Way some place) over to West Seattle, and walking around the water's edge over there (we took a bus after the ferry landed). And I loved walking around the residential part of Capital Hill, around Volunteer Park, with so many trees, bushes, and flowers blooming in May (California lilacs etc etc). There's a great little restaurant up around there, Kingfish, on 602 19th E at Mercer, serves Louisiana kinds of food, fantastic crawfish soup, corn bread. . .
When I stayed only in Downtown my first time in Seattle, I didn't like it nearly so well (also, it rained a lot that time).
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Shue, your mention of dungenss crabs left me in mourning. That is my most favorite food. We used to get them here (DC area) but no more. When we were out on the nw coast I really indulged. the best ones were in Toffino on the west coast of Vancouver IS. We sat on the porh of our aline motel watching the crab boats and several hours were at a tiny restaurant eating the crabs. What joy!!
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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quote:Originally posted by sojourner: Mike, Make sure you reserve your ticket on the Victoria Clipper in advance; the boats do fill up in season, from what I saw (2 years ago). Also, there was a Triple A discount, when I got my ticket (I called their toll free number and bought it; I don't recall their refund policy but luckily I didn't need it). Also, when I took it, there were a few different boats a day, of different sizes; I liked taking the bigger one as it is less choppy sailing. All the boats were catamarans for passengers only, not the really big car ferries like the one you would take if you went from Victoria to Vancouver (you take a bus, then a ferry, to get to Vancouver; if you do that, you can take Amtrak back south to Seattle in a triangle if you have time). I'm sure you'll love Victoria; it's a splendid place that handles it's tourists quite well. Others here encouraged me to go and I'm so glad they did!
My wife and I spent three nights in Victoria in April 2004 at a Best Western a block from where the catamaran lands.
We got there by A) flying to Seattle and spending a night (we were wide awake the next morning at 4am.....darn jetlag), B) catching the Cascade Talgo train to Vancouver, and C) taking the Pacific Coach bus, via BC Ferry to Victoria.
The ferry ride itself was awesome.....we were on the boat for maybe 90 minutes and it was like a miniature day cruise with absolutely stunning scenery......particularly when this large boat made our way through a narrow passage with evergreen-shrouded islands on either side.
On leaving Victoria we did the bus back to Vancouver, caught the Canadian to Winnipeg, and flew home from there. Getting on the plane in Winnipeg was touch and go when I had difficulty explaining to the customs agent why we decided to fly home from Winnipeg. Like - "It's...uh...time to go home man and....uh....this is where we're at....uh....when it's time to go." I suppose I could have just said that on this particular date flying from Winnipeg was much cheaper than flying from Toronto.
Four years later and we agree that this was our best vacation before or since. I would recommend that you plan to spend two or three days in Victoria if you can. Try to work in a ride up to Nanaimo or Courtenay and back on the VIA RDC train....something no rail enthusiast should miss!
Oh......and about those crabs - I had some unpleasant experiences with them when I was a graduate student in Maryland. Hopefully the Seattle variety is better. I think SeattleShue would assure me they are!
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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On our list of things to do in Seattle area:
Pike Place Market. Tzena has never seen it.
Ivar's House of Clams on the dock. Very good seafood as you watch the ferries come & go.
Meet with Mandrake {from rv.net/forums}
Ferry to Victoria and take the VIA RDC train. Been wanting to do that for a while.
Go out to Olympia National Park.
We only have 3 1/2 days there and expect to get in lots of sightseeing {Coming in on the CS and leaving on the EB}. I'll be going back to Vancouver & Victoria Island on company business July 7-11.
Posts: 1418 | From: Houston, Republic of Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
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Any advice on where to stay in Portland please? I saw the Macmaster House B&B advertised on the web which looked OK. I should also be grateful for what to see whilst there - I have a day and a half beofre catching the train to Oakland. Thank.
Posts: 211 | From: Norfolk England | Registered: Sep 2007
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Heatherite: I've stayed in Portland many times. One thing that might be surprising to you is how small downtown Portland is. You can walk almost anywhere (if it isn't raining!). The transit system in downtown Portland is FREE. You don't need a pass or anything magic---you just hop on-board a bus or a light rail car (they call it "Max" in Portland). Take advantage of this free service! The downtown area is what they call the "free zone", but if you travel beyond the free zone you will have to pay. While you are in Portland, head over to Powell's Books. Any hotel desk clerk or any local Portland person can direct you there, so I won't try to confuse you by giving directions now. But rest assured that it will be easy to locate once you are there, and even if you get lost, any local can tell you where Powell's is. It's a gigantic book store, with a huge railroad book section. If you're not into railroads, they have every other type of book there you could imagine. You could spend the day in there just browsing. So don't forget Powell's Books!
As far as hotels, when I stay in a big city in the downtown area, I prefer the larger full-service hotels. The two that I can recommend to you are the Hilton Hotel and the Westin Hotel. The Hilton is extremely nice, but it fills up many months in advance. If you can get in there, you would be very happy. Excellent location (walking distance to everything), clean, modern, and a great hotel. The Westin is equally nice and is also in a great location. It is a little bit smaller, with a "boutique" hotel feel to it. But Westin has the Heavenly Bed and Heavenly Bath, and the bed is the most comfortable I've ever slept on.
If you're looking for a smaller hotel such as a Comfort Inn or Super 8, I can't help out there but maybe someone here could recommend one of those properties for you.
Posts: 2355 | From: Pleasanton, CA | Registered: Apr 2007
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MIke,you keep saying Victoria Is. Do you mean Vancouver Is. or are they 2 different places or has the name changed? or am I just plain confused?
Posts: 1577 | From: virginia | Registered: Jun 2005
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Yea, I meant Vancouver Island and the city of Victoria. I guess I could have just looked at the USA map behind me before I posted... :R
Posts: 1418 | From: Houston, Republic of Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
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There are a couple of the Comfort Inn, Days Inn kind of hotels within a block of the 85th street station on the Portland Light Rail......that's just over halfway from downtown to the airport.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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