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Owing to family illness and lots of running around, I've been remiss in posting on my midwestern trip, so I wanted to do that before I take off to the family again for a couple of days. . .
The trip began with the usual scenic, on-time "hop" down the Hudson River to NYC. For this part, my husband came with me, but he returned north at the end of the day while I overnighted with my friend in NYC. Since my friend wakes up very early on weekdays, I booked the Carolinian to DC (if leaving from NYC I like to go to Chicago via DC as that gives me a nice little stopover there). I arrived at Penn Station just after 6:30AM and had time for a quick stop in the ACELA lounge for a cuppa and a danish (as long as you have a sleeper the same day, you can use the ACELA lounge). I must say, the staff in the NYP ACELA lounge is very nice. Anyway, from there, I had a Red Cap put me on the train. I asked if I could take the quiet car, but he told me there was none on the Carolinian (I had forgotten) since passengers between NYC and DC could sit only in the last 2 cars--I don't recall having to do that before when I've taken that train, but maybe I just never noticed. The trip itself was uneventful. The train was busy all the way--someone sat next to me from Newark on (even though the first person got off in Philadelphia, another got on). We would have been on time except for a ridiculous snafu in Washington's Union Station: Even though everyone in our car was getting off there, no one opened the doors on our car! Most odd, since there was no problem with doors--they'd opened at every other stop--and now there seemed to be no personnel to direct us. Finally, a passenger up in the front (the aisle was jammed) who had walked up to see what was going on came back to say that someone told her that everyone in our car must walk through the next car to get off. This was most cumbersome to some of the elderly passengers with luggage and seemed really weird to me--if you make passengers sit in just 2 cars for Washington DC, then you should certainly open the doors to those 2 cars in Washington DC. I cannot figure out what happened, or why there was no train or station personnel there to direct us.
Anyway, it was still early in DC, so I had plenty of time to enjoy it. I left my luggage in the ACELA Lounge and headed up Massachusetts to H to Chinatown, where I had a delicious noodles-n-stuff lunch in my favorite Cheap Eats place. I then headed over to the Mall, where I went through the National Gallery's always nice outdoor sculpture garden (I love that eraser!) and the little Butterfly Garden by the Natural History Museum and then went in to the latter to see the relatively new Oceanic Hall (which I found more for kids than for me), bopped briefly into the American History Museum (where I saw the inaugural photos and restored Star-Spangled Banner, among other things), saw the excellent display (a little from every Smithsonian Museum) in the Smithsonian Castle (main building), and then went into the nearby Sackler (Asian) Gallery to see a fantastic little display, on loan from the Kremlin, of gifts given to the tsars from the medieval Ottoman and Persian Empires--really gorgeous stuff, golden bridles and whatnot. I also enjoyed the wonderful gardens nearby, as I always do--the Haupt Garden, the roses by the (still unopened) Arts & Industries Building, and the perennial garden just past it; and went through the garden by the American Indian Museum and outdoor part of the National Botanical Gardens and past all the azaleas blooming in front of the Capitol before heading back to Union Station.
I caught the Capital Ltd with no trouble, opting to walk all the way down the platform myself (I really only use Red Caps in NYC). My sleeper was fine, but I was disappointed to see the new icky configuration with the three-seater tables facing inward in the dining car--they hadn't been there when I traveled in March. But at least, unlike the City of New Orleans, this train had an observation car. For dinner, I got the crabcakes, which had been good the last time I'd traveled, but this time seemed overdone and salty. I also had ice cream--no room for anything more! I chatted with passengers here and in the dining car until late and was surprised when I got back to my sleeper a bit after 10 that my bed had not been made up, as I thought I had mentioned wanting it done around 9:30. But I guess there was some communication problem. Anyway, I could not find my car attendant, but another train worker made up my bed for me. I then slept rather well, waking only in Pittsburgh briefly.
I had an early breakfast--a tasty cheese omelette. The train was EARLY into Chicago, but since there was no earlier bus to catch to Madison, I left my luggage in the Metropolitan Lounge and took a nice walk down Adams to Wacker to Washington to Millennium Park, with many flowers in bloom, and then past the Gehry thingummy and over the bridge and down to the lake, where I walked between the gorgeously in bloom cherry trees. I returned to Union Station to pick up my luggage and catch the Van Galder (Coach USA) bus to MAdison, very conveniently located right on Canal St. The bus was quite comfortable, with no one seated next to me--not a bad trip at all. I arrived around 2 at the U of Wisconsin's Memorial Hall. I forgot my hotel had a free shuttle and instead and phoned ahead for a taxi, which took me to my hotel, where I checked in and dumped my luggage. Since rain was predicted for the next day, I decided to spend this day all outside. I took pictures of the Capitol and was soon headed back up State Street to the campus, where I had a delicious student-made ice cream for a late lunch on the terrace on Lake Mendotta and walked around. I then went back down past the Capitol to Menona Terrace, a late Wright design, and walked along Lake Menona, eventually having an early dinner in an Indonesian restaurant. I was too tired to do much more so I went to bed early. The next morning it was drizzlingo ut but I walked over to the Edgewater Hotel for breakfast on the lake and then back up to the campus to visit the art museum. Heading back downtown, I stopped in a wonderful used book store (with an A--used to be called Canterbury Book Sellers but now a different owner) and went past all the "good" hardovers to pick up a paperback I'd been looking for, then headed back down to State Street and had an early lunch in a Himalayan restaurant, not very expensive, stopped in the state museum near the capitol, took the 1 o'clock tour (a very good one) of Menona Terrace, and returned to the capitol for the 3 o'clock tour (the only one that day that wasn't mobbed with kiddies). I also had another ice cream, same student-made kind but this time sold to me at the Wisconsin Cheese Shop downtown, and bought my husband a great T-shirt.
The next morning I had a great breakfast at a place near the capitol called Marigold's and then met my friend from Wisconsin, with whom I drove to Galena, IL. We stopped in New Glarus for lunch--the town is Swiss kitsch and fun, and while the lunch was not as good as other meals I had on the trip, I did have some Wisconsins bratwurst and hear some yodeling and alpine horns. We reached Galena and spent the day mainly outside--saw view from old high school (now condos), visited Grant Home and Grant Park (walking across footbridge), and of course saw the old (unused alas) train station. I stayed at the old De Soto Hotel, very historic. The next day was drizzly again, so I took the trolley tour, very nice, and visited the historic museum. My friend then returned (from work ) and we had an early dinner at an excellent place (1XX Main Street, I forget the address but that is also the name of the restaurant), not too pricey, and we went over to Dubuque so I could see the Mississippi at this point. We crossed over and went up to the heights (where they funicular goes, but we drove), then down below to a River Center next to an old Shot Tower, then crossed the river again and went back into Wisconsin. From there, next morning, my friend drove me back to Madison, where I caught the 10AM Van Galder bus back into Chicago.
The bus ride was again fine--I had the seat to myself again--and I listened to music as before. We arrived in Chicago early and, after dumping my luggage in the Metropolitan Lounge, I took a taxi up to that Prairie Avenue area that I'd wanted to see. I toured the Clarke House which had been moved there (the oldest in Chicago) and the Glessner House and walked all around, then walked all the way back on Indiana to Roosevelt and then past the Field Museum and Aquarium and down along the lake--the cherry trees were fading by now but it was still a lovely day. I reached Millennium Park after 4 and took the new bridge over to the Art Institute (I'd wanted to do that!) and then headed back down Adams to Union Station. I was tired but happy!
I caught the Capital Ltd for my first trip ever on that train eastbound and enjoyed it very much, except for the icky new dining car configuration. This time I had the old reliable chicken for dinner, very good, and some chocolate cake, also good. My sleeper was comfortable, the attendant accommodating and reasonably knowledgeable of the sights, though I spent much of the time when it was light in the observation car. I awoke early enough to get out in Pittsburgh and explore just a bit, then returned and had breakfast, having the cheese omelet again, though it was a bit dry this time--I should have had the French toast but thought I needed protein. We arrived in Union Station early again, so (after a brief time in the ACELA Lounge) I had no problem catching my Regional. Here again there was a snafu between DC and NYC, though this time not caused by Amtrak--sadly, someone had apparently trespassed between Philly and Trenton and been killed on the tracks. Because of the coroner etc the train was going really slowly, so I got into NY Penn late and missed the connection I'd hoped to get back upstate, so I had to take the next one.
All in all, a pleasant trip, with none of the icky Greyhound-like bus problems on the nicely run Van Galder line, and the only really problems surprisingly coming on the NE Corridor!
BTW, as you may have noticed, I never did get to St Paul as originally planned. Because of family considerations and my friend in Wisconsin's plans, I went to Galena instead and could not do both. But thank you, Twin and others, for all the info about that city and Minneapolis, and don't worry, I'll be using it when I do go there, hopefully soon. (I still have to visit Helena and Boise too, so might do it on the eastbound Empire Builder, much easier than any bus from Madison).
Thank all again for all your help!
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Ms. Sojourner, considering we are roundly the same age (I'm 68), I certainly commend your 'gumption' to get out there and travel, as mine is nowadays limited to that necessary to keep friends friends and family family.
I realize you have many a word in your vocabulary such as "thingy' and "icky' that simply are not in mine, but I would like to point out that, even though the terms have become "homogenized" by later day rail travelers who never had occasion to know the "real deal", this is an Observation Car and this is a Sightseer Lounge.
To continue, it appears that a #370XX Diner remains assigned to the Capitol Limited, although the regular Diner menu is offered. While I have never set foot in any of these cars, I've never seen a kind word about such in print. Amtrak has obviously backed away from their plan mandated by Congress (remember how those guys and gals were supposed to be Amtrak's friend to stand up against that evil Darth Vader Bush administration?) to offer Dining and Lounge service from one car. Now, save the City (whoops, CONO in forumese), they have scrapped this concept. While they obviously have gained expertise in what menu items can be prepared off train yet provide an attractive meal to a passenger, conversion of thirteen 380XX Diners has to be considered a waste - and Congress must bear the blame for such.
Finally, I also have stayed at the De Soto Hotel in Galena and once attended a wedding at Glessner House.
Posts: 9977 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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Mr Norman, I am not quite 68 yet! Not quite 60 in fact! But soon will be (and look forward to the VIA Rail discount)
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Ms. Sojourner, now that you have chosen to share your age with the Forum, would you be willing to share your obversion to renting automobiles? Your surface travel arrangements certainly would be more convenient if you did not hold such. This is why I lead myself to believe you were more elderly.
However, if I have 'crossed a line' with asking, please accept my deepest apology.
Posts: 9977 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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Great trip report as always and thanks for sharing.
I am on the verge of booking a July trip which will involve using the Capitol Limited eastward from Chicago. I'm curious how efficient the dining car crew was in moving folks through the Cross Country Cafe? I ate in one on the CONO and they were not very efficient.....but that was more due to new and inexperienced staff than limitations of the equipment. I'm curious how a crew which feeds higher passenger volume copes.
Van Galder.....they run a good bus and I have used them before. As for reaching Madison, WI, I have always liked the Badger Coaches bus operation from Milwaukee as well.
There is some noise about the possible restoration of Amtrak service from Chicago to Dubuque.....this would make reaching Galena by passenger train possible again.....something I would applaud.
And Dubuque, IA.....I worked for several summers with a youth organization there in the 1990's. I love that area in the spring and summer. January is somewhat....uhm.....chillier though.
-------------------- David Pressley
Advocating for passenger trains since 1973!
Climbing toward 5,000 posts like the Southwest Chief ascending Raton Pass. Cautiously, not nearly as fast as in the old days, and hoping to avoid premature reroutes. Posts: 4203 | From: Western North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2004
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Last week, I took two friends round trip to Chicago from Pittsburgh so they could experience train travel, and see Chicago. The CCC car on the Capitol Limited is a farce for providing meals. We were in coach, and managed to be three of the seven people from coach to be served breakfast in the lounge end of the CCC car, which was unused except for the paperwork mess of the conductor. That end of the CCC car is a total waste of space, and if it were used for a "lounge" it would be too small.
Returning on the CL eastbound, we ate dinner in Chicago before departing, I told my friends that coach passengers aren't offered dinner. That turned out to be correct, reservations were never taken, dinner was never announced in coach. I was told by the car attendant that they struggle to feed sleeping car passengers later into the evening.
The staff were all polite and badly overworked trying to work in the CCC space. My friends enjoyed the trip.
The CCC cars could perhaps be used on the Heartland Flyer, or on the Empire Builder as suggested as a supplement, but I think they are an unfortunate addition to the CL. A lot of revenue was lost by a lack of capacity.
Posts: 76 | From: Steubenville, OH | Registered: Oct 2004
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I too thought the dining staff worked very hard to get people served. They did get them served, and were nice enough too, but I think it was quite a lot of work for them. I have no idea how many of the coach passengers got dinner service, and if any were turned away, but the fellow I spoke with westbound (who was detraining in Toledo) was a coach passenger, and he had reserved for dinner and had his with no problem. Also, the fact that the Capital Ltd did have the downstairs snack bar in the observation car (or sightseer lounge, if that is what Mr Norman says to call it?) instead of in the cross-country dining car meant that a lot of coach passengers could use that instead, and eat down there too; it was MUCH MUCH less hectic than the CONO, with the coach passengers lined up through half the "cross=country cafe." Also on the CONO people were taking their food back into coach and at least one passenger spilled the seafood gumbo, so the whole coach stank (or do I mean stunk?); nothing like this happened on the Capital Ltd's I rode. Nevertheless I think it's nuts to use this stupidly designed cross-country dining car, and I do think they lose revenue because of it.
And I think they would very much benefit from hiring a third person in the dining car, at least seasonally, for instance, perhaps a student, to "bus" the tables--perhaps to come on only for certain hours, for instance, for the dinner hours (I guess westbound they'd have to go from DC to Pittsburgh, for instance) so they would not have to use a sleeper on the train? Just a thought . . . .
Mr Norman, to answer your question, I drive only locally (like to the doctor or supermarket) and do not like to drive in inclement weather, at night, for any length of time, in unfamiliar places, and esp not alone and in an unfamiliar vehicle. I wouldn't dream of renting a car by myself except in the direst emergency; I am just not interested in doing it for my vacation.
Posts: 2642 | From: upstate New York | Registered: Mar 2004
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Ms. Sojourner, I certainly respect your choices in the matter of rental autos. In my case, it is simply I have an auto at my disposal when I'm home, why should it be different when I'm traveling, save maybe Midtown Manhattan as a destination.
I've have been known to say to friends when proposing a visit: 'I'm a low maintenance guest; I rent cars and I stay in hotels".
I'm willing to bet all too many here have or have had relatives who with no notice, will call saying they are at the airport/train station, come get us. They have a way of staying for as long as they like and expect to be "taken here taken there'.
Even if I am getting of age to be one of such, that is somewhere I simply will never go.
Finally, we should note that rental autos "don't come cheap no more". On a Sep 08 trip to a family wedding in Greenwich CT, I drove the rental auto from KHPN to my hotel, to my Sister's house twice, to a mall in Stamford to obtain the necktie I forgot, to the Riverside train station (chartered bus from there to the wedding) to a business meeting in Greenwich - back to KHPN - and that was it. 3 days rental 77 miles $179.38.
Convenience costs - and more power to you Ms. Sojourner for in my mind "putting up with what you do".
Posts: 9977 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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quote:Originally posted by sojourner: And I think they would very much benefit from hiring a third person in the dining car, at least seasonally, for instance, perhaps a student, to "bus" the tables--perhaps to come on only for certain hours, for instance, for the dinner hours (I guess westbound they'd have to go from DC to Pittsburgh, for instance) so they would not have to use a sleeper on the train? Just a thought . . . .
Ms. Sojourner, to my best knowledge, and keeping in mind that three years of my railroad career was in Labor Relations, there is nothing in the existing Labor Agreement precluding Amtrak from establishing Dining Car assignments calling for an employee to detrain somewhere, overnighting in "suitable lodging" and boarding another train in the morning with the objective of providing more coverage during peak Dining Car hours.
Possibly, they do just that at present.
Posts: 9977 | From: Clarendon Hills, IL USA (BNSF Chicago Sub MP 18.71) | Registered: Apr 2002
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