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You could use 1/4" nails, but they transmit sound to the plywood. I think glueing would be better.....Mike Posts: 97 | From: Columbus Ohio USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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I always glue the cork roadbed down with Elmer's white glue, held in place, for 20 minutes, then you can remove the track nails, which have been barely driven-in. Happy railroad trails, to you!!!!!!
Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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yeah, After installing 8 pieces with nails.. I am going to buy wood glue.. and tack it with nails to hold.. At least I am getting some where.. I have one switch and 2 pieces of Flex track installed... LOL
Jeff
Posts: 23 | From: IL, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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After years of trying just about everything, here's how our club does it, quick and easy. 1st, think of your layout as a layer cake; get each layer as perfect as possible, before moving on to the next. All the icing in the world won't hide a bad cake. So too, a flaw in the sub-roadbed, or roadbed will affect the track above. So make sure the surface is flat and smooth as possible. 2nd, take the time to lay out the centerline of your track. Use a straightedge on straight sections. Make sure this line represents exactly where the track will go. Look at it from several angles to make sure straights are straight, and curves look smooth and flowing. 3rd, get a box of push pins (the kind with the big plastic heads). Pull your cork sections apart. I use Elmer's wood glue. 4th, take one side of the cork, lay it on it's back (top side down), then run a medium size bead of glue down the entire length. Pick it up at the ends, and slightly pull apart so there is tension, and it doesn't sag severly. Start at one end, and then follow your line. Don't worry about being exact here, as the glue will give you plenty of time to adjust. Go back to your starting point, and get it exactly where it needs to be, and secure in place with a push pin. Use a pin about every 2-3 inches or so as needed. Once this is done all the way, repeat on the other side, but be careful to stagger the ends about 2-3 inches, so you don't have any seam running all the way across. Stagger your cork sections back and forth, letting the first piece laid being the guide for the second. Then, when the glue has dried, pull all the pins, and use a wood rasp or file or sanding block to smooth out any bumps or dips in the cork (remember your cake). Then when you're ready to lay track, do the same thing. Lay a bead of glue down the center of the cork, use your finger to spread it around in a smooth layer, then position your track, using the centerline of the cork as your guide. Use the push pins to hold the track down until the glue dries, then remove all pins. If you'd like more details, or have any more questions, feel free to e-mail me direct. Hope this helps, and have fun! MOPAC 1 ras@odsgc.net
Posts: 9 | From: Garden City, KS. U.S.A. | Registered: Aug 2000
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I'm in the process of building a splined roadbed helix. After I sand and prep the surface I secure my cork roadbed to the splined roadbed with clear silicone adhesive. It allows time to move and adjust before setting up, it is tacky to hold in place by itself, it will allow removal at a later date if needed as it remain flexible and it should act as a sound barrier between tack and sub (splined) roadbed.
Just my way of doing it.
Mark Gaeth Decatur, IN
Posts: 7 | From: Decatur, IN, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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