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As some of you already know, I'm using Atlas Code 100, Flex-track, in 3' sections. Each rail joiner and track, is coated with liquid flux and carefully soldered, together. I have tested the current in, ALL, my tracks with a voltage meter, (a very, sensitive-electronic, hand-held, needle-point, type), and find the current the SAME, everywhere, along the 75' loop! I use 22ga., single strand wire for me feeders. My question is this: How many feeders, ARE REALLY NECESSARY, AND AT WHAT INTERVALS, SHOULD FEEDERS BE PLACED??? I've read in several books and magazines, to place feeders every 3FT. Is that many feeders, REALLY NECESSARY, for a track so well built and carefully soldered?? I, honestly, don't think that so many feeders are necessary..Oh yeah, my, BUSS WIRE, is 12 GA.' single strand, also!! I'm getting ready to install a, DCC system and DON'T INTEND to put that many feeders on one 75' line. WHAT IS THE FORUM'S OPINION??? Thanks, for the help, with this question... .....Richard Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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I don't really know the answer to this question either. I have heard every 3 ' but have also heard folks say every 6 feet MINIMUM. Frankly, I would go every six feet and see what happens. You can always add more feeders!! Happy Modeling!! John
------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!
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I think the 6' spacing should be plenty. One other thing to keep in mind is that if there is a disruption in power it will be easier to locate it in the a 6' area rather than a larger area. Good luck.
Mark
Posts: 7 | From: Decatur, IN, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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I agree with Mark (welcome to the Forum by the way!! ). I must say that my feeders will need to be spaced at least every 4 feet, because that is the length of each of the modules. Since the modules are removable, each one must have a feeder. So to make a short point long , it also depends on the layout. I suspect that if a guy had a simple 2 x 4 track oval, a single feeder would be more than enough. Another thing that I am just beginning to address is the placement of on/off toggles, so that I can shut off power to portions of the pike that are not being used in any given session. This same principle will be applied to my hidden trackage, because when the Santa Fe Chief screams through the pike it will only happen once per session, the hidden track must then be turned off to store the train. Here, I suspect, several feeders may be necessary, if more than one on/off switch is needed for more than one train. Anyway, just a few more thoughts!! Happy Modeling!! John
------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!
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John and Mark: Thanks, for your replies. I think, at this point, I'm going to try feeders at every 15' and see what happens. The only way I can determine the, "over-kill", of too many feeders, is to simply try it and see!! After all, Where could all that current, possibly go, in a 75' loop, with no interruption, such as, "blocks"? I'll let you know what happens, when I get this system up and running. By the way, I finished my, "Walther's", Turn Table, over this past weekend and quess what??? It really, WORKS!!!! It was a tedious job and I thought I was going to, "loose it", a couple of times, with all those, "tiny", motor-drive parts..... GOOD GRIEF!!! But, it is really neat, to see that baby, "DO HER, THING!!!!! I would recommend, a Walther's, turn table to anyone thinking about having one on their layout! .....Richard
Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Guys: No sooner posted the previous post and I received an e-mail from, Ed Majury, with Atlas Model RR Co; He is in the, DCC Development and Support Dept. I had written him last week after seeing a post of his, answering a question for someone else, somewhere on the, web!! Don't ask me where, I've been, "around the world", on this computer!!! Ed, recommends feeders, every, 3 to 4, sections of flex track. That would be, 9 to 12 Ft.. I'm still going to try, 15Ft. and see how it, "works out"!! Wish me, LUCK! ......Richard Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Richard, You probabaly have the answer you need, but I'll put in my two cents for what its worth. My layout is built in 4 foot dominoes, so in case I want to take it apart and move it around, its designed with feeders in to and out of every domino. So I guess my answer is every four feet since thats how long the dominoes are. But with every rail joiner being soldered, aren't you worried about expansion and contraction? Seems like that would be a big problem.
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Dragondawg: Thanks, for your input! Yes, I have had some problems with expansion and contraction. But more with, contraction, due to the dry, winter weather condition which cause the, heated-room air, to become too, dry!! My track is nailed down and before I was able to secure it with ballast and cement, it, "buckled", in several places. I simply, hand drilled some more holes in my ties and re-possitioned the track. Then, I added ballast and strong adhesive. Then, I went out and bought a humidifier, for the TRAIN ROOM!! Now, I can control all the, "elements", of these problems, with A/C in the summer, heat/humidifier, in the winter. Welcome to the forum and "thanks", for your interest. May all your,"signals", be: GREEN! .....Richard
Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Well I'm a bit different than most. I HATE sodering, so have track feeders only where absoulotely nessassary. This meens that I have feeders where oposing turnouts will cause a short, and one set for the mainline loop. I havent had any problems with this so far, and I dont solder the track joints. It works for me .........Mike Posts: 97 | From: Columbus Ohio USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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After all the discussion, on this topic, I've decided to go back over my Kalmbach, "how-to", books and look at the rail soldering lesson, again. Because of the, "expansion/contraction" , thing and some of the, "warped track", I've experienced, I really don't remember this problem/possibility, being raised! I guess the worst thing I'd have to do is, replace some soldered joints with, unsoldered joiners, and make sure I had feeders on either side of the solder-less joints!! Isn't Model Railroad'n GREAT!!!! .....Richard
Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Richard, Hope you get the soldering problem worked out !! Let us know what you come up with. By the way, my Walthers turn table arrived today, and I started working on it tonight . I do not have the moterizing kit yet, but that's on the list . So far, I am very impressed with the turntable model. I painted the internal rail and ties, and the dividing brick. I then put real dirt over the "plastic" dirt in the pit. Needs a second coat and some balast the "fell in" and then I can assemble and paint the bridge. I will mount the whole thing loosely in the module, so it can be removed when I'm ready to motorize. By the way, do you have a roundhouse with the turntable?? If so, how far did you place the table from the roundhouse?? The Walthers directions recommend 13.5 inches from the turntable center to the front door of the center stall. That seems like an awful long space to me, but I don't have a roundhouse to judge it by (yet!!). Anyway, Happy Modeling!! John
------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!
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John: Yes, I do have a, 6 bay, roundhouse. I think you said your scale was, "N", and mine is, "HO". My roundhouse is, 15", from center of the table, to the front doors of the roundhouse. If the distance, your size model suggests is, too far for your liking, then try this: Take the longest engine you will be using on the layout, place it between the turntable edge and the roundhouse, allow just a little bit more space, to allow the roundhouse doors to, open and close, without touching the engine. I think that is all the space you'll need! Check it out and let me know what you think...... ......Richard
Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT TRACK (excuse the pun). I too am in the process of installing my DCC system and have soldered all joiners. I glued and nailed the track to the cork and then came back and soldered each joiner. I have 20 gauge risers coming off a 14 guage power buss. The one thing I didn't see anyone mention in all the previous posts is the use of plastic rail joiners. This is just as important in DCC as it is in DC layouts. In DC layouts we call these blocks. In DCC layouts we call these power districts. I used plastic rail joiners to electrically isolate sections of my layout (8' x 17'). Each power district has its own power buss and a "smart" circuit breaker for each power district. The way I wired this setup is by coming off my booster (NCE), I feed power to a European style terminal block. Then off this terminal block I feed power to a "smart" circuit breaker for each power district. What this arrangement provides is if you have some sort of short in your system, only one power district is affected and the "smart" circuit breaker that controls that power district will do what it is designed to do. All other power districts are therefore un-affected. Once the source of the short is removed, the "smart" circuit breaker will reset itself and allow the power district to be powered once again.
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Thanks, to all of you, who responded to my topic! I'm sure I will have enough info. now, to go about the, DCC, challenge! I'm really glad to know you, all! ......Richard Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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The Rochester (NY) Model railroad club that I used to belong to has a very good solution that would solve BOTH of your track problems. No rail joints are soldered, and feedeers are dropped from EVERY section of rail - from a 1/2 inch filler, to a full 3 ft. long piece of rail. All track was hand laid, and all switches were hand built on the spot. We had no problems in the 5 years I was with the club. Good luck!
Posts: 57 | From: Hudson, Fl USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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I've read in several books and magazines, to place feeders every 3FT. Is that many feeders, REALLY NECESSARY, for a track so well built and carefully soldered?? 
Thanks, for the help, with this question... .....Richard 
, it also depends on the layout. I suspect that if a guy had a simple 2 x 4 track oval, a single feeder would be more than enough. Another thing that I am just beginning to address is the placement of on/off toggles, so that I can shut off power to portions of the pike that are not being used in any given session. This same principle will be applied to my hidden trackage, because when the Santa Fe Chief screams through the pike it will only happen once per session, the hidden track must then be turned off to store the train. Here, I suspect, several feeders may be necessary, if more than one on/off switch is needed for more than one train. Anyway, just a few more thoughts!! Happy Modeling!!
