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I'm getting ready to build, I am a former tinplate fan starting in HO. Is code 83 good enough or do I need 100 code?
Posts: 5 | From: Long Island NY USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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The difference between codes 83 & 100 is the size code 100 being bigger. Code 83 is closer to prototype while 100 is not. I belong to a club and we use nothing but code 83. It does look a lot better. Price and availability for code 100 is better. Again it all depends on what you want to accomplish with your lay out. Welcome to HO. I think the majority of us in the hobby started out with tin plate just like you.
GOODLUCK, Bob Cochran. aka Baby Choo@aol.com
Posts: 39 | From: Canyon Country, CA 91351 | Registered: Oct 2000
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Welcome Booly15, I agree, code 83 looks great, but it is also sometimes hard to get and pricey. If you got the money get it if you can. Personally I like code 100 on my mainlines, tracking is better or so it seems, I use smaller code in sidings and industrial spurs.
Another thing, beware of some of Atlas's switches, esp. the custom #6. I like others found out the hard way. Do alot of research before you jump into it.
Posts: 62 | From: HC, IN, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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Booly, Booly, Booly, have you ever opened up a can of worms!!!The difference between code 100 and code 83 is the height of the rail. Track is sold in a number of sizes, called "codes", which indicate the rail height in thousandths of an inch. Code 100 (.100"), code 83 (.083"), and code 70 (.070") are common sizes in HO scale. You'll also be faced with choosing brass, nickel-silver, or steel rail. At one time nearly all HO track was made with brass rail. However, the yellow color isn't realistic and brass must be kept quite clean for efficient electrical contact. Nickel-silver is a similar soft-metal rail with a more realistic silver-grey color and better electrical conductivity. While it is true that most code 83 track comes with brown ties, which are a little narrower than the code 100, which comes with black ties, code 83 may look, more realistic (out of the box), but once code 100 is in place, there is no trouble to painting it with Floquil aerosol "rust brown", to give the code 100 a similar look as code 83. Be sure to buy your long 3 Ft. sections of flex-track, which you can easily shape for different curves and contours. Myself, I like the code 100, it is reasonabaly priced and you can use Atlas turnouts if you like, however, I would suggest none lower numbered than a #6. There are other brands of turnouts you can substitute, check with your hobby shop. A good book for you to pick up from the Model Railroader, (Kalmbach Publishing-people), is: "Trackwork and Lineside Detail for your Model Railroad", $17.95. It is a great source of information and will help you, step by step, in one the most critical areas of a SUCCESSFUL, model railroad, RELIABLE-TROUBLE-FREE track work! Have fun with your wonderful, life-long hobby. .....Richard Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Hey thanks everybody, I am still in the planning stages and will have to do some work on the basement to get it ready.(electrical etc.) But I think I have found a great site. I will be a regular here for sure. Thanks everyone
Posts: 5 | From: Long Island NY USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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If you are going to hand build your track, code 100 is the easiest to work with to learn how, especially for switches. After you get some experience, any of the sizes can be worked quite well. I have handlaid track with everything from code 50 up to code 100, & it is a lot of fun, especially as you can build your switches IN PLACE, and for whatever size you need, and build them SMOOTHER than what is available comercially. Kep on RR'ing. Tom Spring Lake Railroad.
Posts: 57 | From: Hudson, Fl USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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This post is for Richard. Had to tell you, LOVE YOUR GRAPHIC!!!!
Posts: 39 | From: Canyon Country, CA 91351 | Registered: Oct 2000
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Bob Cochran, Thanks for your comment on my, graphic. It comes from the web site: www.harrythecat.com There are hundreds of graphics to choose from and once you find one you want to use, type the graphic information like this: [img]http://www.harrythecat.com/graphics/k/the item#youchoose[/img] All you have to do to complete the graphic choice is to insert the graphic name/number assigned it and put in the above address where I entered, the item#youchoose. If you need any more help, let me know. Happy modeling! Richard Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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I have worked with both Code 100 and Code 83. All I can say is that Code 83 looks more prototypical, but when code 100 is down and balasted you can hardly tell the difference. Code 100 is better for tracking, and if you have any older wide flanged locos stick to code 100. DO NOT use brass track. Nickel silver takes a lot less to maintain and looks better. Turnouts are tricky business, and Atlas has its problems (but I have never found a turnout that did not have problems). Frankly I think Atlas turnouts work well enough, but stay away from the remote switches. Either install undertable switch machines or use manual ground throws. My current layout will use the old "piano wire" trick for throwing switches: a wire under table connected at one end to the switch points and a knob at the other. The knob is pushed or pulled depending on which way you want to throw the turnout. I agree with Richard. Do some research while you are getting the basement ready. Just about all of the how to books from Kalmbach will come in handy for you, so spend a little money on a good library! Keep us up to date, and Happy Modeling! John
------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!
[This message has been edited by jcater (edited 01-12-2001).]
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