posted
Doubtless this question, answered with pro-con commentary will help many of us getting started, doing benchwork and contemplating track.... What kind should we use? Why? Doing a walk in layout around a stairwell.....want to use the long lengths of track, but don't know what kind. Brass? Nickel? Etc... Please comment.
Posts: 14 | From: Plainville, CT | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
With the exception of G scale, regardless of the scale your in. You will be doing yourself a favor by using exclusivly Nickle Silver Track. Brass oxidises very fast and its oxidation is electricly insulating. This means you have to clean it almost constantly to keep trains running smoothly. Nickle Silver's oxide is electricly conductive and therefore does not need cleaning as often. Steel track can also be used. It is better than brass. But does not stay as electicly operable as good as Nickle Silver does. In G scale all this is for naught as G scale is so big and heavy that it can just press right through the oxidation. The fact that it is common to use 24 volts DC instead of 12 Volts DC is an advantage to. But On my big scale line, I find that what the track is made of doesn't really matter as I use Battery packs and Radio Control.
Posts: 315 | From: Lander,WY USA | Registered: Jan 2002
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posted
If you're modeling HO or N, you can use 3-foot sections of flex track, made by Atlas. It's easy to work with, and looks good. For example, in HO, you could do Code 100 (.100" high), Code 83 (.083" high), 70 or 55 Track. The Code 100 track has wider, black ties, and 83 has narrower, brown ties. As Challenger said, go with nickel silver, as it will last longer, and you will get better running results
Posts: 553 | From: Flagstaff, AZ USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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posted
Why not hand lay your track - build swithces when & where you need them, (this means you do not have to us #4 #6 #8, but build to fit). I have done this several times & it always looks better, and if you take your time with low profile ties and ballast looks 1000% better. I test newly made track by running a fairly long train at FULL THROTTLE IN REVERSE and adjust the track until there are no derailments. Then if there is any problem with derailing, it has to be the car or locomotive.
posted
The best method I have found is a combination of the above. Generally, I use code 83 weathered flextrack by default, and lay all the main lines. Then, I lay all the sidings and branches, be it with code 55 or heavier rail, and lay the track as close to the main line as I can. Then, I cut in the switches to the main. This method works great for keeping the track smooth. I have found that many times, using commercial turnouts causes a compromise in the track plan, and I only use them when requested.
Jared
Posts: 61 | From: New London, CT, USA | Registered: May 2001
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