I to have experienced the same problems you are having with styrene. They come from the fact that you are not using adequate back bracing behind the sub wall. I build all my sructures as a sandwich of the Outer sheeting, the sub wall and bracing. This is kind of like how real structures are built. If you analyze a real stucture, you will find that first the frame is built, then the subwall is put on. On top of that is the siding. As in the real buildings framing, the bracing on the model provides structure and support. Then we add our subwall which on our model performs the same function as a real subwall. Then attatch attatch any outer covering that we choose. On the model that could be scribed siding, or brick sheeting. On the real sructure these can take the forms of vinyl siding to stucco. I reccomend any 1/4" X 1/4" styrene strip for your bracing as cements will have a hard time warping stock that thick. As the cements go, Walthers' goo is not the best choice. It is made for jobs like attatching metal weights to a plastic freight car, or anything where different materials will be used. It is also dificult to get the necessary smooth coating needed for laminating styrene. I have had good success using variuse Styrene cements. Plastruct Plastic cement and Tenex 7Z are two that I have had good sucess with. However my favorite is Testors liquid platic cement. With the other two, you have to have your parts aligned right the first time because the glue sets up fast. With testors you have about 20 minuts working time which you can make adjustments or even abort if you have to. All three brands are the liquid forms. This allows you to use the capilary action technique.

I hope this has been helpful. If you would like to discuss this or any other modeling topic with me further you can email me at challenger@hrp.every1.net or meet me at trainweb's sister site to this forum, http://www.railchat.com I am there at least three times a week. My screen name is Challenger.

I hope I have been helpful.

Thanks very much for the tips. I will definitely try the heavier bracing and the cement you recommend. Fortunately I have only completed one wall of the brick structure and it will be the wall normally facing away from the viewer.

You are quite welcome for the assistance. I am an advocate of people getting down and dirty and scratch building things in this hobby. I hate it when people find their efforts discouraged because they can not for what ever reason obtain the desired results. Reading your reply I came up with another suggestion. If its only one wall you have done, you may be able to repare it to get it flat again. By using the afore mentioned 1/4" X 1/4" stock, rebrace your wall. Start cementing it so that you start at one end of the warp and work along it. As you work along place a heavy wieght, like a stack of books, so that it holds the bracing in place. As you work along the warp with the heavier bracing move the weight accordingly. Repeat until the whole wall is now pressed under the wieght. When the cement is dry, you should again have a flat wall.

Also One more clarification. 1/4" X 1/4" styrene is the minimum bracing to use. It is perfectly fine to use styrene where one dimension is bigger. Its just people can remember 1/4" X 1/4" eaiser when purusing the stock of styrene at the hobby shop than say 1/4" X 3/8"

Glad I could be of assitance.