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I use a mixed bag of eight different track cleaners that all work for me. It depends upon how lazy I am, and the amount of time available to determine which product I use.
The products are: .99 cent rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, nail polish, Brite Boy, 11 oz aerosol QD electrical contact cleaner, $3.00 MAAS paste, the expensive 8 oz., Aero Loco Track Cleaner and the $99.00 Tony's clean machine. I am an ex Centerline owner and an ex Goo Gone user. The Clean Machine is a luxurious item for me and yes, I could do without it as well as the centerline I no longer own. For the benefit of the Newbies, if your layout is not too large, a little elbow power and rubbing alcohol will get the job done. www.centerline-products.comhttp://ttx-dcc.com/technews/clean_machine.htm MR Feb 02, Track Cleaning MR Mar 01, Clean Wheels
Posts: 213 | From: Grand Rapids Mi USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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I followed the latest Model Railroader's suggestion of using metal polish, to see if it would work.
All I can say is wow! I have not had to clean the rails for a while now and trains are still running smoothly. The rail heads also get that polished look like the real thing. I'd recomend it if you have older track that is in need of a real deep down cleaning. Plus, it doesn't scratch the rail like a bright boy.
Posts: 579 | From: San Bernardino Subdivison | Registered: Dec 2001
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The $3.00 MAAS paste was memtioned in MR and that's what prompted to buy it. I picked it up from Wal-Mart. In order to avoid getting it all over your road bed I recommended you use a small block, similar to the size of a brite boy. Wrap a section of old T-shirt material around the block. Rub the paste onto the t-shirt and glide the block down the rail head. No mess! and wipe off. Don't let the MAAS dry.
[This message has been edited by Chuck Walsh (edited 12-28-2002).]
Posts: 213 | From: Grand Rapids Mi USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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I haven't tried the website so I don't know if it's any good.
As far as applying the polish. I put a small amount on an old rag and simply wiped it on. Let it sit for a few seconds and then wiped it off with a clean rag. Very simple. But be sure to wipe it off while it is still wet as the directions on the bottle say. It did take some time to cover my entire layout, but the end result was worth it.
I still have not had to clean the rails again, that makes it about 4 weeks now. I usually have to clean before every running to get the best operation. I haven't had to do that so far.
Posts: 579 | From: San Bernardino Subdivison | Registered: Dec 2001
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The reason why Flitz and other metal polishes last so long is that they have either a silicon or wax base, that fills the scratches in the rail. The scratches are what really gets dirty on the track, trapping the dirt, and also making the rail itself abrasive. The dirt then gets tracked around. I would use this stuff, but then clean the track really good with a bright boy block, pencil eraser, or rubbing alcohol about once a year.
Jared
Posts: 61 | From: New London, CT, USA | Registered: May 2001
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Some years back I modified front engines, one for each train, to hold wipers whch I think may have come from Silver Streak.
I squirt these with kerosene. The trains, which still have a lot of brass rail, will start and run immmediately, even if they have been sitting idle for 6 months. I clean track once every couple of years
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