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I picked up a used AHM F-7 with a dummy unit. It does not have a lot of pulling power... I notice when I put my finger on top of it , it goes better... Should I try adding some weight or maybe adding another F-7 to this in an A-B-A configuration ? When you hook these engines together ( one facing forward , one facing back ) I assume you will have to reverse the polarity on one of the engines , correct ? Also , how will you know if the gearing of the engines is the same ( I assume they MUST be the same or I could damage one of them , right ?) ?? Or , is it ONLY advisable to do this setup with the SAME engines , from the SAME manufacturer to be SURE they are the same ?
Posts: 40 | From: Stafford Springs , CT. , USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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Can't answer the polarity ? It's been my experience both steam & diesel that in order to limit wheel slippage and that also depends the # of cars, is loco weight. IMO, minimum 16 oz.
When I double head, it's always the same manufacturer. There's a difference between manufacturers and sometimes even between the same identical units. My Lifelike E7s, one tops out at 150MPH and the other at 133MPH. Also on a seperate posting you may have mentioned the DL-109 but I don't know which one. This may be a duplicate response but I just saw the Lifelike ad last night. Proto 1000, DL-109, New Heven name but not the color scheme(Orange-Black) you were looking for.
[This message has been edited by Chuck Walsh (edited 12-31-2002).]
Posts: 213 | From: Grand Rapids Mi USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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I bought my DL-109's from www.trainworld.com for $39.99 ea. I bought the two Southern road numbers. They have the best prices out there, bar none! You can also contact them at 1-800-541-7010. ...Richard
Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Hi Chuck ... When you "double-head" do you have each powered units facing opposite directions ( one forward and one back ) ?? I would assume ( I don't have my layout set up yet to test this ) that you would have to reverse the polarity on ONE of them , to keep the BOTH going in the same direction , CORRECT ( can ANYONE answer this ? ) ??? And Yes Richard , I HAVE checked out Trainworld and they DO appear to have unbeatable prices !!
Posts: 40 | From: Stafford Springs , CT. , USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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[Most, some, all] locomotives are wired so that if you reverse them on the track, they will still go in the same direction with the same track polarity. I just tested it out with a Kato RS-1 and it is true for that one.
Posts: 363 | From: Southwest North Central Florida | Registered: Apr 2002
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The nice thing about how model trains are wired, is that they are set up to go the same direction of travel regardless of which direction the front is pointing. So that means you can run an AA set of F units in the common Back to Back fashion and they will still travel the same dircetion.
Now regarding the AHM F-Units.....
The fact that you bought some F-Units from AHM makes me chringe. However, you are a victim of a lack of information, and its not your fault. AHM was a manufacture of "toy" model trains. The quality of AHM products was very very bad. AHM did make a few products that no one else did. For modelers that wanted to use their shells, It was common for them to buy the AHM loco for the shell and throw the rest away. They would then take iether and Atlas drive train for an Alco unit (During the Time AHM was in Business, Atlas had a large line of ALCO units) or an Athearn Drive Train for a GE or EMD unit and modify them to fit the shell. This is what I reccomend that you do with your AHM Fs. F-untis from the era had very similar shell mounting methods across manufacturors. I reccomend that you get two Super-Power F-unit drive trains from Athearn's standard line and mount the AHM shells on those. You can also pick up a thrid F unit from Athearn to make your proposed ABA lash up.
As for Locomotive compatiability. I reccomend that you run locos with the same gear speed. To find out, just set to locomotives on a 6 foot streatch of track. Space them so there is 12 inches of open space between them. start at one end of the track and run them down until the first locomotive reaches the end. Then measure the difference in distance. If they are any closer or any farther apart I do not suggest you run them. However anything with less than a Half inch difference from initial spread over the five foot run is runnable together.
[This message has been edited by Challenger (edited 12-31-2002).]
Posts: 315 | From: Lander,WY USA | Registered: Jan 2002
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Yes , I figured the AHM's were not of GOOD quality , but , I ONLY paid $12 for a used ( nice shape ) SET of NH ( A and B units ) , so at that price , I figured I could repower if I had too.. $12 for the pair is not too bad Huh ?? Even though I am new to this hobby , I DO want quality locomotives for the most part .. I picked up a NH Stewart U25B ( Stewart drive ) , and I also just won a set ( both powered ) of NH , Proto 2000's for $140... Yes , I think I am going to consult with you people BEFORE futher puchases !! You saved my from bidding on a Flieschmann EP-5 , Challenger , by telling me to steer clear of those , and I APPRECIATE that !! The last thing I want to do is buy "junk" in the beginning and get disgusted with things !! I think I am going to stick to the Proto series , Atlas , Kato or the Genesis line for my Loco puchases ... Although I am just a beginner , I would rather buy QUALITY stuff that will last , and add to my enjoyment... Does this sound like a good game plan as far as purchasing Loco's ?? Thanks , Bryan.
Posts: 40 | From: Stafford Springs , CT. , USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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Yeah Chuck ... YOU said it the RIGHT (of) WAY !!! I have to "get on (this) board" with the railroad lingo !!!
Posts: 40 | From: Stafford Springs , CT. , USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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Ah , the more I think about it , I will probably be better off finding a Proto , Atlas , Kato or Genesis ( am I forgeting any ? ) F unit , and putting the AHM units back up on the auction block , rather than going through the repowering route ... Besides , THEY all probably have a better detailed shell than the AHM anyway , RIGHT ?? So why re-power ??? As I said , I want to go with GOOD quality Loco's , and I bought the AHM's before I learned WHICH brands to look for ( typical newbie mistake , I guess ).. Who knows , I only paid $12 for the set , maybe I'll even pocket a couple of bucks on the deal... Yes , now that I have found this site , and gotten good advice from you all , I am CONVINCED , quality is the way to go , rather than trying to upgrade later... I feel I'm better off with the few quality Loco's I can afford now , rather than buying a bunch of "junk" and having to upgrade later , as I intend to stick with this hobby for the foreseeable future !! Why not enjoy the GOOD stuff NOW rather than WAIT !! Thanks for the advice ! Bryan.
Posts: 40 | From: Stafford Springs , CT. , USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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Good idea Chuck ! Either that , or maybe I could try my hand at weathering them , and "abandoning" them on some deserted siding !!
Posts: 40 | From: Stafford Springs , CT. , USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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Here's an fading idea for those units per Athearn
Dullcoat and let dry overnight. Spray over with rubbing alcohol. Don't like it, re-apply dullcoat. Like nothing happened. It's a chemical re-action. I do it all the time for practice on my beaters.
Posts: 213 | From: Grand Rapids Mi USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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Another thing I think would be fun to do, along the back of your major yard. Start a "Dead Line" of retired locomtives that are destined for the scrapper and or now owner. The units should heavily weatherd. On some of the units take a felt tip marker and write sold on it in a fashion so it appears spray painted on. The engine #s on all locos should be painted out. The words Retired can also be written on them as another option.
Posts: 315 | From: Lander,WY USA | Registered: Jan 2002
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