Just 60 miles out and we stop at an information building thatÕs closed but it had a funny robotic ice-cream vending machine that picked up the ice-creams with a vacuum cleaner type hose and dropped them into the delivery tray... was quite funny to watch it at work! Great ice-cream too!
We reach Indy and move our watches back an hour, we drive to the track just for a look around the outside and my excitement level builds again. Here is an official home of motor racing that is in the league of the other great tracks around the world - the history, the races, the people - itÕs HUGE just like America!
We find a nice looking restaurant and I try the catfish which is really delicious - almost like snapper had some more cranberry juice. We then head to the motel.
After a shower and some talking/watching how much rubbish is on TV we turn in - tomorrow is the pit walk!
Thanks to Terry I have tickets not only for the race but Thursday, Friday, Saturday qualifying as well! I really have been looked after and I am eternally grateful. The ŅPit WalkÓ is not usual for Formula One races, to my knowledge only Canada and Indy do it but as far as IÕm concerned all tracks should do it! Basically the teams garages are blocked off by a barrier but very closely and you can walk to the barrier and see into the teams pits and see cars in various stages of assembly, see the crew at work and if youÕre really lucky see a driver or get his autograph if he comes to the barrier.
The one problem was that people got up to the barrier and stood there not moving which did not allow other people to get up front - I then had to take photos by holding the camera up pointing down and taking Ņpot luckÓ some good pictures were taken and one or two were taken through the gaps but would have been better if somebody made the crowd rotate their positions and allow others to get a closer look.
Terry then took us on a tour of the track to various positions where there would be good viewing. Indy has another great idea, on the Thurs, Fri and Sat you can with the appropriate ticket walk anywhere you want and only on race day do you have to take your ticketed seat. At Canada you always have to sit at your seat which would not be so good as itÕs better to see the cars from different views. It was very hot and very little cloud in the sky.
The sun had a real bite to it and I knew I was in for sun-burn. Carolyn let me use some of her sunscreen as did Sarah - I wanted to buy some but did not find anywhere on track that was selling it. Every time I was in a shop where I could have bought some I forgot! Too wound up in the moment to remember the important stuff!
At one point while we were standing surveying the view by the golf course Juan Pablo Montoya, the Williams driver and his brother walked the track and I was able to get some blurry video of him, I didnÕt find out how to fix the focus on the camera until much later much to my chagrin because it really was an easy fix!
After walking to some other spots and purchasing my first F1 merchandise (a black Ferrari T-shirt) we headed back to the motel as there was not going to be any cars on the track. Later that night after we had a rest we went to a restaurant and had tea.
Friday mornng I woke early again and as the others were sleeping I went for a walk ouside. I found some people dressed in Ferrari clothes and introduced myself and we talked F1 for a while. When I got back to the room I caught the time on the clock it was only 5:30!
Terry said ŅItÕs only half an hour to the track and if some crazy Ferrari fans want to get to the track 3 hours before it opens then good on them, but IÕm not going to join them!Ó Carolyn then said ŅI agree and IÕm going back to sleep so shut up!Ó I lay back down and waited a bit longer then had a shower.
We then headed to the track only stopping for breakfast where I was introduced to Maple Donoughts! I have to say they were the best donoughts IÕve had! Coffe was great too.
We got to the track and moved to the position where we saw Juan the previous day and waited for the cars to come. As usual with the new rules only a few cars did many laps, the others only did about 10-15 laps and went back to their pits. A Minardi spun and seemed stuck in gear right in front of us - a couple of scary moments as some other cars came around the corner to find the stricken Minardi in their path and they swerved to avoid it. Amazing how quickly these cars can change direction! The track marshalls soon had the Minardi picked up with a large machine and it was uncerimonously carried to the side of the track behind a barrier where it stayed until it could be rescued by a transporter truck and carried back to the pits.
The Formula BMW drivers did more laps and was good to watch as was the Porsche Supercup GT3Õs that sounded awesome! I did however keep up the photo taking and again managed to fill a card with images of cars and track
We took the camera cards to a shop to get them emptied onto CDÕs and I started to converse with an attractive young lady behind the counter telling her of my trip as Terry came up and said to her ŅDonÕt listen to a word he says - heÕs just escaped from a mental institution!Ó Damn! I was going to ask her to dinner too! Thanks Terry... but it was quite funny to see her expression!!!
That night we had tea with Ed and I tried a couple of ŅdrinksÓ in the shape of a ŅWhite RussianÓ that was served with a pathetic excuse for a straw to mix it with - after several vain attempts to mix the drink I remembered the way ŅkidsÓ mix drinks and gently blew into the straw creating bubbles in the drink mixing it to perfection while the others firstly looked in stunned amazement and then laughed!! The next was a ŅGrasshopperÓ thatÕs a menthal drink and very nice too!
Saturday we got up early and had the maple donoughts/coffee on the way. Today is qualifying for F1 so it will be interesting to see how it goes live. The new qualifying system is boring to watch on the computer until the main runners go out.
However, I have to say itÕs much better live because you get to see each car do a timed lap and can see differences in lines/speed from driver to driver.
For practice we moved to the beginning of the bank that began the last turn before the main straight. It was super hot and I was loosing energy quickly. MS was pushing hard, too hard as he spun just to the left of us! I managed to snap a photo of the stranded Ferrari before it roared off back to the pits. It seemed MS had set his car up for speed on the main straight forgoing downforce and finding the tricky infield a bit difficult.
For qualifying we moved to the end of the main straight at corner one and could see up the straight that the stands were full of people in a variety of colours, although it was hot there was a breeze that kept the temperature down. MS was out first for pre-qual and almost spun out in turn 5 (or 6) and we watched as they all did their laps. When it was over Rubens was on pole with team mate Michael 2nd.
We then went to the Indy track museum, which I have to say is smaller than I thought it would be. There were some lovely cars, even a Jackie Stewart F1 car, a GT90, A Cadillac V16 and various race cars from a turbine powered car that broke down two laps from the end of the Indy 500 while leading, a diesel car and some really old ones. They had a helmet from Michael Schumaker from the 2003 race - I got some photos but only after I realised that my 2nd 64mb camera card was faulty. I had to use the 16mb one. Later I found out it only needed formatting and it would have been fine. I didnÕt find that out until I got home so I spent the rest of the trip with one 64mb card and one 16mb which seriously slowed down my photography although looking back at some of the images I wonder what was I thinking? Just got too snap happy!
As the Formula BMW it was as competitive as it had been at Montreal with less contact. Terry made contact with Ed as he had made it to Indy after all! I believe he was in a corporate box and had met Fernando Alonso the Spanish Renault driver who Ed said was one of the nicest people heÕd ever met and he also had some rumours from pit lane although IÕm not telling anybody - my lips are sealed!
Terry gave Ed Eons BAR cap as Ed said there would be a good chance getting it autographed as he would be in a meeting with Jenson Button on Sunday. As it turned out Button had been quite rude and left early without signing any autographs.
Saturday night Carolyn and Sarah went into town with a friend of Carolyns while Terry, Eon and myself found our own tea. I had fish Ōn chips - they gave me far too much but it was quite nice even if the tartare sauce was bland.... Ed phoned and before you could say much he was at the restaurant. We then headed off to a go kart track to have a race of our own.
Unfortunately the karts were seriously under-powered, the first race I lead our group (others left us for dead) and I was doing ok until I was rammed from behind and spun into the barrier, while the others crawled past disappearing into the distance I waited until finally one of the helpers came out and pointed my kart in the right direction - no reverse!
In the second race I could have sworn an army of ants passed me on the main straight carrying a weeks supply of food for their nest!!!! Anyway Terry got in front and held off the hard-charging Ray, his son and Eon - I slowed down and let Terry lap me hoping to at least engage him in some type of duel but he drove on... was fun but would not have hurt to have another 2 or 300hp underneath! We said goodbye to Ed and went back to the motel thinking we would not see him again but talking between ourselves what a genuine person Ed was and how heÕd put himself out to give us such a great tour of NY City - If youÕre reading this Ed I know IÕve said it before but THANKS! I have a whole new appreciation of the people from New York City!
Sunday morning broke and we headed on our familiar path to the track for the race! Now we were to be seated in the one place but what a great place it was - as Montreal was fantastic because of the height and scenery Indy was Fantastic because of the closeness to the cars and the ability to see so much more.
As part of the opening ceremony Sir Jackie Stewart led 100 bag-pipers from around the world around the circuit playing Scotland the Brave - it really was a fantastic sight and sound - another moment to treasure. Then the drivers did the parade in some very old but beautifully restored cars.
Not long after, the National anthem was sung by a choir and some fighter planes flew overhead unfortunately they flew directly over the stand and we could see nothing - we just heard the roar.
Soon after the race started. The sound in the stand was amazing as it had a roof it helped turn the stand into a trap for the sound of the screaming F1 cars - it really has to be heard to be believed! Also the speed was better seen here - at Montreal the cars had to slow somewhat to negotiate the ŅchicaneÓ here they were going flat out! I still did not have many problems taking photos until my batteries ran flat. I then changed to the Video
The race was marred by Ralf Schumakers crash that happened right in front of me! I was aiming at the track hoping to catch the cars as they sped past to show how fast they were going when I heard a large thud and saw dust and bits of car flying up from behind the barrier, stupidly I put my video camera down to see and got 5 minutes of the stand floor!
It seemed to take forever until somebody got to Ralf we were told that he was not seriously injured, now we know he had a couple of fractured vertebrae which has so far put him out of two races, probably will not race again this year and there is doubt that he will race in F1 again. Alonso also suffered a crash due to a flat tyre, this was probably caused by picking up debris from Ralfs accident. Michael Schumaker continued his domination by easily winning.
Now it was beginning to hit me that the end of the adventure was here - from here it was the trip home, back to work, back to my life that seemed so removed from the sunny skies and warm ambience of Indianapolis.
We drove back to the motel as I took a long last look at the Indy track as it disappeared into the distance. I photographed some houses - things to remind me of Indy.
The plan now was that Carolyn and Sarah would drive me into Indy later to find a motel close the train station so I could catch the train at 6:30am. I tried hard not to show it but I really was sad the trip was over and that Terry, Eon, Ray and his son would be going back home and I was not sure if IÕd ever see them again.
They had a long journey home and I was grateful to Terry for being so generous in driving us such a huge distance - the roads in New York and Montreal probably wore 10 years off his suspension alone!
After they left Carolyn and Sarah had a rest and we then headed into Indianapolis City. The first motel we found didnÕt look anything special but on asking we were told they had a ŅspecialÓ race weekend rate that meant the one night would cost $600 for the night! We left so fast the revolving door is probably still spinning!!!
We then found a Days Inn and that was a lot cheaper so I took a room, went up and put my bags in. Then we walked around the city a bit, saw the monument and we decided on dinner. We went to the Hard Rock Cafe and the food was excellent as usual for the trip. I got a glass as a souveniour and we then headed back to the motel. I said goodbye to Carolyn and Sarah wondering if IÕd ever see either of them again and went up to my room to catch the end of the race replay on TV.
I then phoned home but not before again having a fight with the phone company that refused to accept a non US credit card and would not put a collect call for me! I rang reception for assistance and she said I could ring direct and the call would be charged to my room. I got hold of mum for the first time and we talked for about 10 minutes before finally turning in for a good nights sleep.
I had asked for a wake up call at 4:30 and a taxi for 5:30 as I wanted 2 hours to shower and get to the train station early just in case. I woke without hearing anything and looked at the clock it read 5:30! Panicking I started to get dressed, abandoning any hopes of a shower or any breakfast. I was about to walk out the door when the phone rang - it was the wake up call! The clock was wrong!
After calming down I showered and checked my bags and headed downstairs. The receptionist phone a taxi and I went into the cool dark Indianapolis morning to wait for the taxi. I took a couple of photos of the city lights and shortly the taxi arrived.
Five minutes later I was at the train station although it was nearly the airport as the taxi driver did not hear train station! Lucky I realised he was going the wrong way! I walked up the stairs to the platform a Ņdark and dingyÓ place with little lighting and quite spooky. I heard from one of the passengers the train was going to be up to 3 hours late! So much for getting there early! I headed downstairs to the outside to have a look around and met two ladies Steph and Missy - we talked for a while, they were amazed at the trip I was completing.
We then decided we needed breakfast. Across the road was a place called White Castle. This place isnÕt flash but their ŅspecialityÓ is Ņmini burgersÓ theyÕre tiny! ThatÕs original for America for sure! The thing is you order them in multiples starting at 6! I found it easy to eat the little burgers that were quite tasty and had a better than McDÕs coffee!
We then went back to the front doors of the train station and while waiting who should walk up but Carolyn! Carolyn was planning on taking a bus to Chicago and Sarah having a long trip ahead of her to Montreal dropped her off early. After some checking Carolyn found the train would leave earlier than her bus and she could use her ticket on the train.
We left 3 hours late in a train I think is called the Cardinal. It did not have any sleepers that I could see and have to say itÕs the slowest train IÕve been on. I think I got more sleep on this train than the others probably because it was smoother and I was beginning to loose my excitement level. We got off at Chicago after an uneventful trip through some wonderful green country and said goodbye again.
Now I find myself in that waiting room that I disliked so much on the way to Albany. I was a bit down given the trip was drawing to an end but so happy about what IÕd seen and experienced so far and was so looking forward to seeing the family again and telling them about it all.
I wanted to go to the Sears tower but as we were 3 hours late into Chicago I thought IÕd only have an hour to wait for the SW Chief to LA. However the train was also delayed. the announcements were saying an hour but I didnÕt think that would be enough time to get to the Sears Tower, go to the top, take photos and get back without missing the train. I put my luggage into a pay locker that had a fingerprint reader - probably to identify anybody who puts bombs in them! I then went for a walk to see outside. It was a Ņcold and grey Chicago Morn!Ó and it then started to rain. I put any ideas of the Sears Tower out of my mind as I headed back into the warmth. I found after an hour the train was going to be delayed another hour! I could have got to the Sears Tower! Anyway I walked around, bought some lunch and had a lite beer at a bar and watched TV.
I got back to the infamous waiting room realising my locker would charge me another hour in 3 minutes but as no call had come in I decided against taking the bags out as I didnÕt want to have to worry about them if I wanted to go for another walk should the train be delayed another hour.
One minute after the locker turned over another hour the call for the train came! If it had been two minutes earlier I would have saved $6US!! I got my bags out and boarded. I was not sure what to expect on this journey as the previous trip had been in a sleeper, this time I was in coach, seats only. I asked the conductor if I could upgrade but he said as of now it was fully booked. He did say that should anybody not turn up heÕd let me know.
Everybody turned up and the sleepers were to be used for the entire trip so I had to make the best of the seats. As luck would have it there was nobody sitting next to me and the seats were big enough for me to lie sideways and I slept quite well both nights. Probably better than any of the sleepers!
The train journey back to LA had to be the most Ņdrama filledÓ part! Firstly the train left 3 -4 hours late which in itself should be no big deal but then breakdowns struck. First an air hose for the brakes broke meaning the train stopped and it had to be repaired, then an electrical connection between the front carriages shorted causing sparks and a fire! The train stopped again while the fire was put out. At the time I caught a very strange flash on the rear of the 3rd engine, some said it was a flash of reflected sunlight but as the sun was on the other side IÕm not so sure but it was about the time of the fire.
Because of the fire there was now a broken link in the electrical system from the generators and the remainder of the carriages. The crew had to move the two stricken carriages to the rear and 3 hours later we were on our way again! While this was happening the train was without power and the heat build up was rapid - the staff allowed the windows on the doors to be opened in an attempt to create a breeze which didnÕt really work that well. A lady who was pregnant almost passed out in the heat but finally the cars were all connected again, power restored and the a/c back on rapidly dropping the temperature.
Not long after the 3rd engine that was being used to supply power to the train shut down and we were all without power or a/c which meant that as we were still in the dessert it got very hot very quickly again!
We made a stop at Needles, Arizona and the conductor said it was 125+ degrees outside! Walking outside felt like walking into a fan oven! The wind not having any water to cool or create humidity with was heated by the hot dessert land. It was dry however and for a while I have to say the heat was a nice break from the chill of the a/c.
The real problems then began to surface as the staff could only work 12 hours before being relieved by another crew. However, the breakdowns meant we were running late, the crew hit their 12 hours and we were nowhere near the changing point.
We then had to wait while the relief crew was transported to the train which meant a long time going nowhere. By the time the relief crew arrived they too were close to their 12 hour limit meaning not long after they too had to stop the train and again we were stranded waiting for another relief crew!
When it all added up we were going to be 12 hours late into LA! It also meant by the time we got to Alberqurque the stalls had all but gone, only two remained, one selling CDÕs and the other some silver jewellry - I was not able to find anything for my nieces back home! I should have picked up the presents on the way through!
Another problem caused by the lateness was that the train was running out of food! We were supposed to have got off the train Wednesday morning after breakfast but now the dining car had an extra lunch and dinner to deliver which they could not.
The other problems niggling me was that due to the lateness I would not only be unable to see Challis meaning IÕd have to take her presents home with me but there was a very good chance I was going to miss the plane home!
The conductors walked through the train asking passengers if they had any connections to other trains and then it was organised for some to get off early and put on busses to allow them to catch up to their missed connections. I however was left to fend for myself.
I immediately got off the train and went to the exit of Union Station, I was hoping to travel to the offices of the Train Web site but now this too was impossible. I looked for a shuttle like the one I had caught to the station two weeks previously but none could be seen.
Realising that I had little or no time I caught a taxi knowing that although it would be expensive it was my last chance to get to the airport without missing it.
The taxi driver sensed my anxiety and drove briskly to the airport. On entering the building I heard the last call for my flight! I was directed to the Qantas counter where I was able to tell my problem to a member of the security staff who instantly was in control! He took my bag and told me to go to another isle and he said that my bag would make the flight. I was then taken through the usual process VERY quickly where I was then allowed to go up the boarding ramp onto the waiting plane! I sat down and very shortly after the plane began to reverse away from the terminal as the usual safety instructions was shown.
As I said at the beginning of this journey I love take-offs. However I was now weighed down the the mixed emotions that the end of the trip brings. Everything I had experienced from leaving NZ, arriving in LA, travelling from one coast to the other in a train, experiencing a lightening storm like no other, seeing the beauty of the Canadian F1 track with the technology of the incredible F1 cars, feeling the energy of New York City, seeing the Statue of Liberty from a distance, Central Park, The Empire State building then on to the cultural city of Washington with the statues and monuments, Squirrels (yes! Squirrels! We donÕt get them here in New Zealand) on to the industrial landscape of Indianapolis and the home of US motorsport is now behind me and now IÕm going home. IÕve tasted all types of food from curly fries, mini burgers, catfish and seen a whole different world.
There were some things I didnÕt manage to do, as TerryÕs friend Dean did not join us with his motorhome the mentioned meeting with the Porsche drivers and a ride in a Porsche did not happen, it does not bother me as it gives me something to aim for next time. Also I didnÕt see a Bald Eagle or fire-flies... next time! Terry has already said should I make it over there IÕd be welcome to join him again, it wonÕt be next year, IÕve got a small mountain of debt to kill before that happens... maybe 2006?
Home to my family who have missed me (hopefully), back to my job which I am so lucky I have, back to the routine. After the US my home country New Zealand feels very small and constrictive - if I could have stayed, got a job I seriously think I would have. I even applied for the Green Card Lottery and attempted to apply for some jobs in Washington although they never replied. If IÕm lucky enough to win the Green Card the lure of America might very well be too strong and I might find myself back in the USA living my American Dream!
Chris
Sorry people if it was too long... I took a note book with me (pen/paper not electrical) and wrote things along the way.
Thanks for sharing your adventures.
Thanks for your nice words. I'm still feeling down that its all over 8-(
I loved the train trips, the views of America were 2nd to none and the experience I'll never forget. If Amtrak is to break up or the long distance trains scrapped I will be forever grateful to those who helped me make this trip a reality and allow me to see what truly is a fantastic experience.
To those who've done the trips I did often remember it was my first time out of this little country known as New Zealand, 4 million population total - you American's are VERY lucky to have this service - should I get financial any time soon I'm going to do it again!
And I'll make it a priority to get to the offices of the rail forum - if not for the SW Chief being 12 hours late into LA I was planning on dropping in. But at least I've got something new to do should I manage to get back.