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I just returned from my second train trip west of the Mississippi, and the ride was absolutely gorgeous! What's more, in all cases where things could have gone bad, I lucked out. I don't want to brag too much about this, lest I tempt the train gods for my NEXT trip! But I do want to thank you all for your fine advice, which helped me make decisions on this trip that greatly enhanced my enjoyment. So--thanks to all you RailForumFolk!!!
The first bit of advice was that I go via NYC and Washington DC to avoid the lately-very-late Lakeshore Limited to Chicago. I opted to do this on the trip out and it turned out to be a brilliant move. I had plenty of time in DC to lunch (in a favorite Chinatown restaurant) and walk around the Mall, even saw the small but fine Winslow Homer exhibit at the National Gallery (free, as all the Smithsonian museums are), before catching my sleeper on the Capitol Ltd to Chicago. This was a very nice ride on what I gather was the old B&O route, entirely new to me between Martinsburg and Cleveland, and the first time I ever made the West Virginia stops in summer light--so I saw some very nice sights that I had missed before--esp the Harpers Ferry station (which I had seen on a visit to the park but not from the train)--this has to be one of the most beautifully situated train stations in the country!
The CS arrived the next day in Chicago 2 1/2 hours late--but since it's scheduled arrival time is 8:30 AM, that still gave me time for a walk up to Millennium Park and lunch at the Berghoff (the latter another recommendation I got one trip back from the helpful people at this site).
Now, consider had I taken the Lakeshore Ltd that day--no Washington stopover, and no time in Chicago, because the LS was so late getting in to Chicago that they had to hold up my Zephyr for the LS transfer passengers!!! So, my choice in taking regional train to DC and the Capitol Ltd--that would be Lucky Break #1.
The Zephyr holdup made it just under an hour late in leaving Chicago, and in spite of a bit of a holdup in Iowa due to high stormwinds, I made it into Denver next morning still just about an hour late. The ride was a tad bumpy but, still on a sleeper, I slept like a baby--missed Omaha entirely! Now, a week later I heard they were busing between Omaha and Ottumwa because of track damage from storms (possibly inclduing the same one I encountered). So, no bus or major delays for me. That would be Lucky Break #2.
After my visit to Denver, I continued on the Zephyr to Sacramento. This ride was exquisite, gorgeous, magnificent, not to be missed. I had originally considered going only as far as Glenwood Springs but (though I WOULD like to visit Glenwood Springs and Aspen some time) am so very glad some of you convinced me to go all the way to California, because the ride was so spectacular. I also worried about sleeping while traveling coach but had little problems because I was lucky enough to get a seat all to myself--Lucky Break #3.
I arrived in Sacramento a bit over 2 hours late and was able to walk up to see the Capitol, meander around Old Town and have dinner there, and even see a bit of the train museum gratis, as it was closing. I had been worried about leaving luggage in Sacramento but it's easy enough to do, only $2 a bag. I had been worried about predicted 100-degree heat in Sacramento but in fact there was a nice breeze. I had been worried that the notoriously late Coast Starlight (aka the Starlate), due at a minute to midnight, would get in very late to Sacramento and I'd have trouble hanging out at the station, but in fact it was only an hour late, and I had no trouble. So all of this was Lucky Break #4.
Again I traveled coach, and again, though the train was crowded, I was lucky enough to get a seat to myself. I slept well this second night but woke with daylight (being on East Coast time) to see the scenery, and those of you who said the scenery is better if the train is late were right. The train was running just about 1-1/2 or 2 hours late, and the scenery was spectacular. It continued spectacular all the way to Eugene, as others here told me it would, and I got into Portland around 6PM, as others here thought I never would--and plenty of time for dinner at Jakes, which you all recommended. And here I had been reading of midnight Starlate arrivals! But not that night--Lucky Break #5.
After some days in Portland, I left on the Empire Builder, an exquisite ride through the Columbia River Gorge. Not having been on the Empire Builder before, I cannot describe the refurbishments in detail, but the observation car was very nice and the sleeper was comfortable. The food, however, was a tad disappointing; I think the Seattle branch of the train had salmon on their first night, but since I was on the non-diner Portland branch, I missed it. But the train was very prompt to Chicago, I think maybe 20 minutes late tops. And thanks to all who told me to take it EASTbound; had I made this loop the other way I would have missed the very nice Mississippi River scenery south of Minneapolis/St Paul.
From Chicago I took the Lakeshore Ltd, with some trepidation, since it has been so tardy of late . . . but I liked that it left after 7PM, rather than 5:30 as the Capitol Ltd does, and it is really a shorter distance for me, so I decided to use that instead of the Capitol Ltd this time. And that was Lucky Break #6, because there was lots of trouble in NYC and DC because of that freight derailment in Connecticut, so I would have had trouble on the Regional train back to NYC had I gone that way. Plus I noticed the Capitol Ltd left Chicago late. But as far as the Lakeshore Ltd I was on--it left on time and very nearly arrived in Albany on time too, just 15 minutes late or so!!! Lucky Break #6.
So all in all, a fabulous trip, and one I'd make again in a heartbeat if I could afford it.
Thanks again for all your input!!!
notelvis Member # 3071
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I'm delighted to hear that your trip was a good one and I'm glad that you had the chance to sample so many neat 'favorite places' along the way.
Thanks for sharing what a helpful resource the Trainweb forum was in planning your trip.
Mr. Toy Member # 311
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And then you shared your terrific story with us. Lucky break #7!
jgart56 Member # 3968
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Dear Oh Dear,
My Wife and I are booked on the "Lateshore Limited" next month. I hope some of your luck rubs off on us!
Thanks for the great trip report!
Grandma Judy Member # 3278
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An almost on-time Lakeshore Limited? That's no lucky break - it's a miracle. I'm booked for CHI-ALB in early October. I hope lightning strikes twice!
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