Hi all, first time poster... if this has been posted before, I apologize (I couldn't find a similar thread).
I travelled to the US during May this year, and rode the Wolverine and Empire Builder from Detroit to Seattle (Business class and superliner roomette). For me, it was a test to make sure I'd enjoy travelling by train for extended periods.
Saying that I enjoyed the trip would be understating it slightly...
I am now putting together plans to travel around the US using Amtrak long haul routes during May of next year. I got some vague advice during my trip of routes and directions that I should travel, but I thought I ask the experts. I'm not after a full itinerary as such, just some sequences of routes that might best highlight the US.
Any help that you might be able to provide would be much appreciated!
Posted by chrisg (Member # 2488) on :
Take the California Zephyr both ways as it has the best scenery. Take the Cardinal eastbound and a trip on the Adirondack is a must. Just my two cents. http://www.trainweb.org/chris
Chris
Posted by Gilbert B Norman (Member # 1541) on :
Considering Mr, GregA, that you have done the Empire Builder, I think your next journey should be air to Chicago, Zephyr #5 to Emeryville CA (San Francisco area), Starlight #11 to San Luis Obispo, Pacific Surfliner #774 645A to San Diego, return same #785 to Fullerton, thence Chief #4 to Chicago and same evening air return to any European aerial port of entry (you can rely on #4). If you make it a marathon with hotels only in Chicago (overseas flights all seem to arrive about 3PM local time - too late for a same day with any Westward train), Emeryville, San Luis, and San Diego, the trip could be completed in nine days. However I strongly hope you will choose to extend the itinerary out a bit.
Oh and why San Luis? This is because the timekeeping of the Starlight is so unreliable that it often is 'the Starlight'- sometimes even "the Sunrise" - arriving in LA, and you would miss the spectacular descent of the Coastal Range as well as scenery along the Ocean. Furthermore hotels in San Luis offer more reasonable rates than LA.
Why my apparent "boycott' of LA? what's there to see???
I should add a disclaimer; I haven't been out to 'the Coast' in over fifteen years.
Posted by sutton (Member # 1612) on :
I presume you've seen the network map at www.amtrak.com, but I'll agree with the above posters on the California Zephyr. Also, if you have a great deal of time, the Southwest Chief will give great desert views. And whatever you do, spend some time in San Francisco and Chicago, if nowhere else. Great cities worth several days each. In chicago, do Tommy Gunn's Garage. (google it). The Cass hotel seems to be the place where quite a few Europeans stay. I stayed twice. It's clean and great location off Michigan ave, about a $5-7 dollar cab ride from Union Station. About $80 a night. Good luck!
Posted by Geoff M (Member # 153) on :
Hmm, Cardinal New York to Chicago, Zephyr to San Francisco, Starlight to LA, Chief to Chicago, Lake Shore to New York.
Or, Crescent to New Orleans, Sunset to LA, Starlight to San Francisco, Zephyr to Chicago, Cardinal to New York.
Both those ideas involve potentially missing either the Pacific coastline route or the Rockies at nighttime - unless you take Mr. Norman's excellent suggestion of overnighting in San Luis.
Personally, I'd ignore Florida for such a trip - not to mention it's hard to get to, particularly with the Sunset out east of New Orleans.
A usually cheaper but a day longer alternative between LA and Chicago is the Texas Eagle. I quite enjoyed it, probably almost as much as the Chief.
I also like the City of New Orleans (the train and the city). It's a little harder to work into an short itinerary though.
Geoff M.
Posted by notelvis (Member # 3071) on :
I agree with the everyone who has strongly recommended 5/6, the 'California Zephyr' in either direction. Would also concur with 'Coast Starlight' and the 'Cardinal' eastward from Chicago to the DC area.
To that list I would add the 'Capitol Limited' (I prefer westward) from Washington to Chicago.
A couple of hotels I would recommend would be the Henry Clay Inn in Ashland, VA. It's front door is less than 50 feet from the Amtrak station. (Only the 'Regional' trains stop there so you must look at the corridor timetable). The building is actually fairly new but it is a replica of an older small town railroad hotel which originally stood on the site. Ashland is just north of Richmond and is home to the very attractive campus of Randolph-Macon College. It's a good place to relax and watch trains go by for 24 hours or so as you recover from a long rail trip or an international flight. (BWI airport near Baltimore is a good one to consider because either a shuttle bus or light rail train can easily get you to an Amtrak station where you can reach Ashland without having to change trains.)
Also, the Vagabond Inn (Executive Old Town location) in Sacramento, CA. It's across a parking lot and very busy street from the rail station but still an easy walk. It's also very close to the California State Railroad Museum, one of the better railroad museums in the United States.
Both are about $90 US dollars per night.
Once you've made this trip come on and post how it went. Those of us here enjoy a good vicarious rail excursion every now and then!
Posted by sojourner (Member # 3134) on :
This is likely more ambitious than would be comfortable, but you can whittle it down, expand on stayovers, etc.
Day 1: Fly to Montreal. Time differences allow you to get there 2 hours later than you left (but you will be jet lagged!). Stay the night. Possible hotel: Holiday Inn Select in Chinatown near Old Port. If you are tired you can eat in Chinatown. If you are not, go see Old Port but watch overpriced restaurants there. Or you can stay in the cheaper Novotel closer to the gare, but that is nearer the English seciton. You can have dinner there but it will be touristy and not as good. If you re not tired, go up to the Plateau for dinner.
Day 2: Stay another night to see something more of Montreal--Old Town, archeology museum, or maybe botanical garden, or walk Mont Royal. Eat in Plateau. Avoid Sun & Mon--lots of restaurants closed in Montreal on those days, or good chefs off.
Day 3: Take the Adirondack to NYC (sit on left facing forward to the stop in Albany-Rensselaer, then move to the right facing forward; wear hat with brim so you can see the Hudson as sun in west may be in your eyes) You will get in fairly late. Stay the night in NYC. I don't know your finances, but the Ramada New Yorker, 8th & 34th, right by Penn Station, will run $200 a night plus tax. There are cheaper places, don't know what they are like.
Day 4: Stay another night to see something more of NYC. Central Park & museums (avoid Monday for Frick or Metro Mus of Art). Or maybe Greenwich Village and Downtown. In evening, go see Grand CEntral Station. Or you could have dinner on 9th Avenue in the Theater District, or in a Brazilian restaurant on W46 nearer 5th Ave, and then go to a Broadway show.
Day 5: early morning Regional train to Washington, DC (leave no later than 8:15). Leave luggage in Acela Lounge there and lunch & walk around Mall, you can go in an out of museums to heart's content, since they are free. Get back to Union Station (lovely building) to catch Capitol Ltd. Get sleeperette (Superliner Roomette).
Day 6: Arrive Chicago. Stash luggage in Metropolitan Lounge. Hopefully you will arrive in time to have lunch & walk around--Millennium Park, the Lake. If you go to the Walnut Room at Marshall Fields and tell them you have a train to catch, they will be quick. Get sleeperette on Zephyr if you can afford it, at least for the first night.
Day 7: Continue on the Zephyr. Get into the observation car as soon as you leave Denver in the morning.
Day 8: Arrive Sacramento, hopefully with time to walk around Old Town. Have dinner and return to train station. Catch the midnight (haha) Coast StarLATE. Sleeperette if you can afford it.
Day 9: Arrive Portland, OR, hopefully not TOO late. Stay the night. Mark Spencer Hotel is the rec of most people here--you will need to take taxi but it isn't far.
Day 10: See something of Portland--walk down by river, or go up to the rose test gardens--depends on your fancy. You could lunch in Chinatown. If you check out of your hotel you can leave your luggage with the front desk--or you can bring it to Portland station and check it there. In late afternoon, take the Empire Builder on the leg you never took, from Portland east up the gorgeous Columbia River gorge. Get right to observation car, right side facing forward. Can do this coach, I'd say, although if you have a sleeper, you can use the first-class lounge in Portland (and leave luggage there free) . . . if you have a sleeperette, don't let dinner intrude on your viewing!
Day 11: I'm not sure the best stop to get off for catching the Empire Builder back. Whitefish would give you the most to do while you wait, but you will then miss seeing Glacier Park. Of course, you saw Glacier Park this year, but it bears repeating if you are in this neck of the woods. I wouldn't go any further than E Glacier or Cut Bank--just to be safe--but is there stuff to do in these places while you wait for the westbound Empire Builder? Others here will know more about this than I. Maybe you could go only as far as Essex and hang out at the Isaac Walton? I don't know, if you're not a guest . . . .
Day 12: Arrive in Seattle. Grunge City! but stay at Pioneer Squre Best Western. You can have a nice lunch at Matt's in the Market. . . Stay overnight . . .
Day 13: Catch the Coast Starlate south in the morning. Get a sleeperette if you can afford it.
Day 14: Arrive in Emeryville, then via Amtrak bus to San Francisco. Stay there.
Day 15: See more of San Francisco. Stay there.
Day 16: One more day/night in San Francisco. This could also be the day to drop if things don't go well trainwise and you need a catchup day.
Day 17: Take the Amtrak bus to Oakland in the AM to catch the Coast Starlate to San Luis Obispo. Stay there.
Day 18: Stay in SLO another day and see the Hearst mansion. Or take early Pacific Surfliner to Santa Barbara and stay there one night.
Day 19: Catch the very early (6:45AM from SLO--hey, no problem, you won't be on CA time) Pacific Surfliner to LA. Go business class. When you arrive, stash your luggage & see downtown LA. Walk around & have lunch & early dinner near the station--Olivera St, Chinatown, Japantown, etc. Catch the SW Chief in the evening. Again, sleeperette if you can afford it.
Day 21: Go to Williams or Flagstaff. If Flagstaff, stay in Monte Vista Hotel near train station. Very cute little college town with good inexpensive places to eat, music in another old hotel downtown at night. I'll give more specifics if you need them.
Day 22: See Grand Canyon. If you went to Williams, you take that train. If you stayed in Flagstaff, I think you can take the shuttle there and back the same day, run by SW Tours, leaves from by the train station. Don't waste money on their actual tour unless you must (I thought it a waste of money).
Day 23 SW Chief eastbound again. Gorgeous red rocks.
Day 24: Arrive Chicago. Stay there. Best Western on Ohio Av is good place to stay--need to take taxi with luggage.
Day 25: Spend most of the day in Chicago. Catch the Cardinal in the evening. Remember it runs only 3 days a week so you'd have to plan the whole trip to fall conveniently to those days. Try to get a sleeper on the preferred side of the train (ask which it is; I've never been on the Cardinal but I hear it's very much worth seeing)
Day 26: Arrive in Washington, DC. Stay there & see some sights. I'm not sure where to stay; hotels are usually expensive. Maybe try Red Roof Inn in Chinatown. This isn't far from Union Station. A few seedy folk about but generally it's a bustling area, except maybe don't stay here if it's a Sunday?
Day 27: Continue in Washington DC
Day 28: Fly home, possibly out of Baltimore Intl. You can catch the Amtrak to the Baltimore airport.
You can add a day in NYC or maybe a 2-night stopover in Glenwood Springs (and bus to Aspen), esp if you don't get a sleeperette on the Zephyr. Or whatever, to make this a full month. . . .
Posted by GregA (Member # 4457) on :
Erm... wow. I can't begin to thank you all for your responses. I'll try though, but I'm quite taken aback - thanks to everyone!
I've been using the route guide on the Amtrak site in conjunction with my second 6th Ed copy of USA By Rail to try and work out where to go next. I took a copy of the same USA By Rail edition with me on the Empire Builder and gave it to a charming lady on the train who was going to visit family and travelled by Amtrak to enjoy her passion of birdwatching.
I don't know whether this is a normal thing, but my single biggest fear of long distance train travel was age. I turned 30 on the train, and hailing from Australia, I still remember being told by travel agent after travel agent that I'd be bored to tears on the train (specifically the Aussie Ghan and Indian Pacific). Apparently - not my words - trains are filled with old people who enjoy the slower pace of train travel.
My big surprise was that many of the people riding Amtrak actually have someplace to be - visit family, checkups for medical reasons, a holiday destination, and so on. This is quite unlike many of the Aussie long distance routes, where people take the train more for the onboard experience.
The resulting cross-section of people onboard the Empire Builder was far more diverse and interesting than I could ever have expected, and really made the trip for me.
Sorry, I've rambled. I'm sure that you all know this stuff, and I'm grateful to have learnt by experience rather than rumor and stereotyping. And that's why I'm coming back, rather than travelling on local routes.
Thanks again. Edited PS. I have posted some of the photos of my trip, please feel free to grab any you want - [url= http://web.mac.com/gmask1/iWeb/Greg%27s%20Spot/Amtrak%20Wolverine.html]Wolverine[/url] and [url= http://web.mac.com/gmask1/iWeb/Greg%27s%20Spot/Amtrak%20Empire%20Builder.html]The Empire Builder[/url]
Posted by train lady (Member # 3920) on :
greg, another suggestion is start in Los Angeles, take the sunset Limited to San Antonio,the Texas Eagle to Chicago, the Cardinal to DC, the Capital Limited to Chicago and the California Zepher to San Francisco.You could fly home from there or take the Coast Starlight to LA and fly from there. We did this trip in reverse starting and ending in DC. If you can afford sleeping arrangements do. It makes all the difference. You can go to the lounge and meet lots of other people . As to the age thing it's obvious your travel agents haven't been here. We have met several couples in their 30s with whom we still correspond by email. College students, people in their 40s and 50s. Some are on vacation others on business trips. There is a wide variety of ages,genders, races and people from other lands. That is one reason we find train travel so great. Do give us a report when you return,
Posted by Mr. Toy (Member # 311) on :
quote:Originally posted by GregA: The resulting cross-section of people onboard the Empire Builder was far more diverse and interesting than I could ever have expected, and really made the trip for me.
Amtrak's long distance trains are often erroneously referred to as "tourist trains" because many people these days can't comprehend the idea that people still ride trains for basic transportation. But as you discovered, the trains' clientele is as diverse as the nation itself.
Posted by sojourner (Member # 3134) on :
Greg, That is what I like about the trains--the wonderful cross section of people you meet. Plus, the scenery, and the general relaxed yet often awestruck feelings I get looking out the window and watching the land go by. And the stops--I especially get excitied when I stop in these interestingly named smaller towns--the train really "puts them on the map" for me. I feel like I am in one of those movies where they show the person's travels on the map. I always say the trains are like a traveling national park or monument. But they are also like a traveling melting pot.
I hope you will write some letters to members of our Congress (Senators and House members) commending Amtrak, and also send copies to local newspapers of places in which you stop. Even though you are not a voting citizen, you are a foreign tourist attracted to come to the US--and spend your money here--because of the trains. And traveling them has given you a stronger appreciation of the country. It's yet another reason--along with a host of others--why we need long-distance trains in America.
Posted by graynt (Member # 17) on :
I always enjoy reading travelouges from the members on this forum and especially from people who are new to train travel and want to learn more. All of the above itineraries are great. I always worry when will it end...I ve been hearing premature death knells for Amtrak for years and it keeps on surviving. The closest call was this time of the year four years ago when the newly appointed President David Gunn threatened to shut down the system if funding didn't come through and I was going to leave the next day.
I ve been traveling by Amtrak for pleasure for seventeen years and it never gets old. Just next week I ll be traveling on the Adirondack, next month on the SW Chief and in September on the Coast Starlight, the Sunset Limited and the Crescent. You do meet a lot of different kinds of people on the train and they certainly are a good cross section of the US.
Whatever routes you decide..enjoy your trip! They all have their merits.
Posted by Gilbert B Norman (Member # 1541) on :
Mr. GregA--
Now that you have chosen to share with the Forum that you are from Australia, this will call for some 'rethink' such as to build an itinerary around a West Coast aerial port of entry.
That you previously stated that you had last entered the US through Detroit and with your command of English clearly as your primary language, this suggested that you were from a European English speaking land which means either the UK or the Irish Republic. Accordingly I proposed to you an itinerary presuming you were arriving from Europe.
I realize that tweenies and teenies are best advised to not reveal all that much at sites such as Myspace or Craigslist, and any responsible family will carefully review their posting to those and/or similar sites. But sometimes a little more info can render great rewards.
Posted by sojourner (Member # 3134) on :
Yes, Greg, for some reason I thought it said somewhere that you were from the UK. That is why I suggested you fly to Montreal and said you would get there only 2 hours later because of the time difference.
Sorry about that!
Posted by GregA (Member # 4457) on :
quote:Originally posted by Gilbert B Norman: [QB] Mr. GregA--
Now that you have chosen to share with the Forum that you are from Australia, this will call for some 'rethink' such as to build an itinerary around a West Coast aerial port of entry.
That you previously stated that you had last entered the US through Detroit and with your command of English clearly as your primary language, this suggested that you were from a European English speaking land which means either the UK or the Irish Republic. Accordingly I proposed to you an itinerary presuming you were arriving from Europe.
For that I apologize. I've travelled to the US twice before - once to work in LA for a month, and then my vacation this past May. On my last trip I first visited friends at a convention in Detroit, then decided to take a tour that started in Vancouver - hence travelling on the Wolverine and Empire Builder (and Amtrak coach service from Seattle to Vancouver).
That said, there's every likelihood that I'd start a future US trip with friends in Detroit, flying Melbourne - LA - Dallas - Detroit. From there, I can easily commute to Chicago, Montreal or New York. In all honesty, I don't mind where I start my rail travel, and I'm quite happy to fit my schedule around optimal travelling times on routes.
Thank you again for your advice and suggestions - I hope I didn't cause any grief!
Posted by George Harris (Member # 2077) on :
quote:Originally posted by Gilbert B Norman: Mr. GregA--
Now that you have chosen to share with the Forum that you are from Australia, this will call for some 'rethink' such as to build an itinerary around a West Coast aerial port of entry.
That you previously stated that you had last entered the US through Detroit and with your command of English clearly as your primary language, this suggested that you were from a European English speaking land which means either the UK or the Irish Republic.
This (the thought that arrival in a point other than west coast means you came from Europe) is a quite common misconception, but is no longer true. In fact, if you fly Northwest, Detroit is a frequently used point of entry for arrival from quite a few Asian points, plus of course Hawaii and point that get you to the mainland US points via Hawaii. Other points that we or acquaintenances have entered the continental US through have been Minneapolis, Chicago, Dallas, and the usual west coast points of Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles.
George
Posted by GregA (Member # 4457) on :
Hi all,
I've resurrected my old 'Which Amtrak routes to take' thread from last year, one which many of you helped me out with.
I'm at the stage of finalizing my trip prior to booking everything, and I have a couple of questions that I'd appreciate any advice that people might have:
- First up, I read a lot of people talking about choosing a seat/sleeper on a particular side of the train. Last time I made bookings, my local travel agent directed me to the Amtrak site, and I believe that the sleeper was allocated for me. Is there an opportunity to make this selection during booking on the Amtrak site?
- Next, layover times... the Amtrak site bookings seem quite happy to create itineraries that have layovers between long-haul routes of 10 minutes, an hour, or a couple hours. Given some of the horror travelogues - particularly surrounding the Coast Starlight - what length layovers would generally be recommended, if the intent is to continue traveling sooner rather than later (I've already done LA, and have no real interest in staying over there - just for an example)
- Third up, a question about a return Chi - LA leg... As I see it, I have a couple of options to get to and from Chicago to LA: the SW Chief, the Zephyr + regional services, the Empire Builder and Coast Starlight, and the Texas Eagle. I'm told all four are excellent trips, and I don't know which to choose! The Eagle is desirable to me, as I'm a sucker for a longer adventure... and even though I've traveled on the Empire once before, it connects nicely with the Starlight, making it desirable again.
- Last: Books and more up-to-date Amtrak advice. Is USA By Rail 6th Ed the most current book for travel? I see that another title - Postcards and Trains - Travel USA by Train - has appeared on Amazon with a June '06 print. Is one preferable over the other? Also, has anything drastically changed in the last 12 months that directly affects the long-haul commuter?
I hope these questions aren't too long winded or oft-posted. My thanks for reading this far, and for any information that might be posted in reply!!
Posted by train lady (Member # 3920) on :
Hi Greg, I always ask for the room I want when booking. This is possible only if you book early because sleeping accommodations go very quickly. If they give me one I don't want I try to get them to change to the one I do want and am usually successful. I usually ask for the car I want as well as we like to be next to the diner,It's a shorter walk!!! If you have not ridden the Zepher You will miss a great train ride so I would definitely work that into the schedule
Posted by dilly (Member # 1427) on :
-- If you're traveling in a sleeping car, you can choose a specific room number provided you book the trip with a "live" Amtrak agent by phone.
The middle-of-the-car rooms tend to be a bit quieter and ride more smoothly. Generally, however, there's no way to tell which side of the train a room will be on, as your sleeping car can conceivably be turned in either direction by the yard crew.
Note that choosing a specific room number isn't an option when booking online. You'll find a sleeper diagram here:
-- As for traveling in coach. . . you can't reserve a specific seat in advance. More often than not, it's pick-your-own-seat when you board the train.
For the widest choice, arrive at the station early and be among the first passengers to make it to the platform (although some crews will assign you to a specific seat at boarding time, which is another reason to make sure you're at the front of the crowd). Also be aware that, in some cars, certain rows don't align very well with the windows. So choose carefully for the best view.
-- Even the most generous "official" layover time often turns out to be purely wishful thinking, since trains often arrive several hours late. If you can, overnight in a hotel before embarking on the next leg of your trip. You won't have to worry about missing a connection (or being treated to a surprise seven-hour Amtrak bus ride to ensure that you'll make it), and you'll board the next train in your itinerary far more rested.
-- When traveling from Chicago to L.A., the California Zephyr/Coast Starlight itinerary is by far the most spectacularly scenic (although the more direct Southwest Chief is fine). The Texas Eagle is conspicuously lacking in the remarkable scenery department. Try the others first.
-- As for books: I've looked at them all and, frankly, haven't found any of them especially useful. Several do include route guides, but those guides were lifted (sometimes verbatim) from the official Amtrak guides you'll find for free right here:
------------------------------
Posted by notelvis (Member # 3071) on :
Hi Greg,
Depending on what you ultimately choose to do, I would not plan to make a same day conection off the Coast Starlight in either direction or the California Zephyr.
In one of the posts last year, Gilbert Norman suggested an itinerary westward on the California Zephyr, southward on the Coast Starlight with overnight in San Luis Obispo, and then to LAX the following morning (to assure the most scenic coast running by daylight), and an evening departure eastward back to Chicago on the Southwest Chief.
This suggestion is the best 'western sampler' I've seen and it covers the best of what you've not seen yet. The only revision I would make would be to leave the Zephyr at Sacramento and overnight there in the Vagabond Executive Olde Towne Inn. You'll get to your hotel at a more reasonable time even if the train is hours late and there is always the chance your departure on the Coast Starlight the next morning won't be quite as early as the timetable reads.
Posted by GregA (Member # 4457) on :
Thanks for your feedback train lady, Dilly and notelvis!
I was quite taken aback when the Amtrak online booking suggested a ten minute layover on one of the connections. Common sense would seem not to apply in some cases!
That said, I've taken all the above advice, experimented with a number of itineraries, and - costs permitting - am warming to the following itinerary starting in Chicago that I hope incorporates many of the suggestions given above:
California Zephyr, Chicago - Emeryville Coast Starlight, Emeryville - Portand - LA (or San Luis Obispo then on to LA, as people seem to favor it) SW Chief (or Texas Eagle, though reports favor the Chief)- LA - Chicago Cardinal, Chicago - NY Acela, NY - Washington Capitol Ltd, Washington - Chicago (plus all the appropriate layovers, etc)
Additional options are the Pacific Surfliner (San Luis Obispo - San Diego - LA or Fullerton), a stop a Williams for the Grand Canyon, and Sacramento instead of Emeryville.
Posted by train lady (Member # 3920) on :
Sounds good to me. Just remember that the Cardinal doesn't have checked baggage. Leave NYC early as possible so you will have time to do some sightseeing in DC before getting the Capital to Chicago
Posted by sojourner (Member # 3134) on :
Hi, I'm back on line after medical leave. . .
Your itinerary sounds great to me. If this is to be your once-in-a-lifetime American train trip, the only thing you might consider adding (if cost and time make it possible) is a run from Portland OR up the Columbia River Gorge (which is just gorgeous) and overnight into Montana on the Empire Builder, then back on the Seattle leg of the EB, then come down from Seattle either (a) on the Coast Starlight OR (b) on a Cascades, with a cheap overnight in Eugene or Salem Oregon and Coast Starlight south from there to SLO or LA. If you did b, you would probably be able to catch the 2:20 Cascades south out of Seattle, because the EB is rarely terribly late. Eugene and Salem have inexpensive motels within walking distance of the train station. As to where in Montana it would be best to switch from the east to west bound Empire Builder, I leave it to others here to advise you; but I'm pretty sure it's do-able without an overnight, unless you want one.
With regards to taking the Coast Starlight only as far as San Luis Obispo, overnighting there, and catching a Pacific Surfliner next morning--you may not need to do this now unless you want to, as I think the Coast Starlight has cleaned up its act a bit. But if you do book it this way, it gives you the option, if the Coast Starlight is running ridiculously late again, of phoning Amtrak and switching your travel from Emeryville to the San Joaquin-plus-bus to SLO. Then you have your already booked night in SLO and catch the Surfliner south next morning. Staying in SLO should be cheap--we stayed in the Days Inn for under $100 inc a little continental breakfast, at that was peak summer seaon. You will need to pay $10 for the cab fare each way from the train to the motel (it's not really walkable with luggage, though once encsonced in the motel you can walk back into the main part of town, if it isn't too late--if you took the San Joaquin and bus, you should be there before 4PM). Catching an early morning taxi to the train station was not a problem.
Were you planning to spend any time in SLO or just use it for a stopover? The Mission is pleasantly restful, and I liked walking along the little creek; we ate in the Big Sky Cafe on Broad St, quite good. You can walk back down to it from the motel, it's maybe a mile tops . . . . We spent an extra night and took the local bus to the Hearst Mansion; I loved that bus ride along the coast (I am not one for l-d bus rides but this little local bus was just great, only about an hour ride maybe?)
With regard to Emeryville vs Sacramento, I would say if you are making the connection from the westbound Zephyr to the northbound Coast Starlight, you are better off doing that in Sacramento. When I did this (August 05) we were not too too late getting into Sacramento and I was able to check my luggage ($2 a bag as I was traveling coach at this point) and able to scoot over the train museum--they let me in for free because it was 20 minutes to closing! Then I went over and saw the Capitol (but it was closed, I couldn't tour it--I did see a guy on the street who looked just like Ahnold, though he wasn't!!!) and I walked around the Old Town (there is a great hard candy store where I bought a lot of these for my husband; then I ate them all on the trian and he never got a one hahaha) and had dinner there. I got back to the train station by dark and hung out there, met all sorts of neat people taking the train, took a little snooze on the seat (I had my pillow) . . . the Starlight was only 1 hour late that night, which was great! We got into Portland only a few hours late, before dinner, which was also great.
Had I tried to make this connection from my Zephyr trip last year, we'd have been even later, I think we got into Sacramento about 4-5 hrs late? But it was still light (August 06). . . .
On the other hand, if you are planning to spend a few day in California before heading north, then by all means don't miss San Francisco. You can overnight in Emeryville or you can actually catch an Amtrak shuttle from the Zephyr to Fisherman's Wharf and stay there (I found one hotel not too expensive at all, Columbus Motor Inn; for one person in August, which is PEAK SEASON, it was under $125 at the Triple A rate). Of course, I got there 10:30PM on a Friday night (my train go to Emeryville at 9:30 instead of scheduled 4:30PM, but I knew I'd be late) and it was VERY busy, hard to get a taxi to the hotel but I managed. In fact, it was a walkable distance, but it was dark and I didn't know the way yet so I was glad for the cab.
I would definitely recommend seeing the Grand Canyon too if you can. See EVERYTHING you can, that's my motto, based on experience! I didn't like the bus tour I took to the Grand Canyon all that well and would suggest you look instead into that train from Williams.
Personally, I liked the SW Chief much more than the Sunset Ltd--for one thing, the crowd on the train was more fun, with people from all over the world and all over the US. The scenery between Flagstaff and Raton Pass is all fabulous, esp the red rocks around Galup . . . . and Raton Pass is cool. If it runs close to on time (and it often does), you will likely be able to walk around a little in the stopover in Albuquerque (but don't miss your train!!!). Once you get into Colorado it's just flat cattle country, not the exciting topography of Colorado; but the next morning you stop in Dodge City, also cool, and then Kansas City--if there is time you can go out and see a bit of the station there.
Another thing, if you take the SW Chief, it leaves later in the day, so you will have more time to walk around downtown LA. There's a lot to see near the station (avoid a Sunday for this, btw; I think it would be dead then!); someone else queried about that and I have to check my notes and post in his strand (I've been ill and off line) so look for my info there . . . or ask me again here and I'll direct you. I've just come back on line and a little mixed up for now!!!
Re the Cardinal: do keep in mind it will get you late into NYC. Are you booking a hotel there? Prices seem pretty outrageous lately; but you will have fun in NY; post again and let me know if you need any tips about stuff there. . .
The eastbound Cardinal is a small and a bit cramped sort of train compared to some others, and with worse food for sleeper passengers, but with gorgeous views. I took this coach last October and though it was busy I had a seat to myself most of the time. Then I made friends with another passenger sitting solo on the other side; that way we could move to either side, depending on the views. The better views are probably on the left side facing forward, but the New River Gorge bridge is on the right . . . . so you need to switch positions a little! The observation car is not the big sort of western kind, alas.
One thing I did when I took the Cardinal, since I did not need to see NYC (I see it all the time) and instead needed to catch my upstate train home, and since I did not want to spend a lot on a hotel there: I took the Cardinal only to Charlottesville, V,m stayed very cheaply at the Red Roof Inn there (got off and walked to it easily enough), had dinner and slept there, and then headed further the next morning. I actually had booked a bus to DC and a Regional back to NYC, because I wanted a chance to have a little breakfast and walk over to see Jefferson's dome at the U of Virginia after daylight (this was October, so it was getting dark early when I got in). But when I got to the train station in Charlottesville the next morning, the Crescent was an hour or two late, so I paid a little extra and switched to it, took it only as far as DC and caught my regional there, got into NYC at a nice normal hour and was able to catch my local train back upstate.
Enjoy yourself, it all sounds WONDERFUL.
Posted by joefamily (Member # 892) on :
You should plan at least a day or two in Memphis via the City of New Orleans. http://memphisinmay.org/home.html . You may even see Elvis. Or maybe someone that's alive.
Posted by GregA (Member # 4457) on :
Well, recent developments at work have forced me to split my tour in half, so to speak. On the negative side, I don't have nearly enough time to complete the trip I'd wished for; on the positive side, I do have enough time to get some train travel in.
Given the reduced time frame (roughly 7 days), I looked to all your comments to try and create an itinerary. I hope it wasn't presumptious of me to say, but it was fairly obvious that the Zephyr and the Starlight were two of the most highly regarded trains in the Amtrak system. With that in mind, the the trip I've booked looks like this:
- Det - Chi (Wolverine): My origin is Detroit, much the same as last year. Another early Wolverine trip is on the cards... - Chi - Emeryville (Zephyr, Roomette): It would have been nice to ride the Chief this time, however I'd want to stop at Williams for the Grand Canyon, and time was against me. - Emeryville - Portland (Starlight, Roomette): Earlier posts suggested I head north before heading south, so I took that option. From Portland, I'd love to head inland on the Builder, it just didn't work out this time.
I have six hours in Emeryville, which I hope is enough to take a quick look around SF... - Portland - Los Angeles (Starlight, Roomette): I'm meeting collegues in Costa Mesa, so I chose to head straight into LA, and straight back out again. - LA - Anaheim (Surfliner): The end of my trip!
Anyway, my kind thanks to all of you for your assistance and suggestions. I can already see my next trip planning itself... Chief, Canyon, Chief, Cardinal, Adirondack... etc... Posted by Gilbert B Norman (Member # 1541) on :
Considering the abysmal Zephyr timekeeping of late, I highly doubt if there would be time for anything more in SF than to hop off one bus and on to another for your return to Emeryville - if even that.
What I would suggest is to make your connection from #5 (Zephyr) to #14 (Starlight) at Sacramento, but again, I should defer to the wealth of local knowledge at this West Coast oriented forum. As I noted earlier, I have not been near the West Coast in now 16 years - not any kind of boycott; just no reason.
Posted by palmland (Member # 4344) on :
Greg A - after reading your original post and later modification to a 7 day itenerary, certainly any of the trains suggested for western travel would be great. However, as a southerner let me hopethrow in my two cents for an excursion to the south.
May is a maginficent time in the southeast and in recoginition of your short time available, I would take a flight from Detroit to Washington, DC. In DC, rent a car and explore our Capitol then drive a few miles south of Washington and get you and your car on Amtrak's Autotrain. It is arguably the best train on the sytem. An overnight ride will have you in Sanford, FL near Orlando. See the sights there and drive down to Miami if you wish (the South Beach area is truly unique) then hop on a plane for the short ride to New Orleans. It's also uniquely American icon but in a much different way than the Disney World/Orlando area. Enjoy a couple days there and return to Chicago on the well run City of New Orleans, as someone else has suggested.
Whichever direction you choose, you're in for a treat in seeing some of the best sights of our country. I guess it's a question of enjoying some of nature's best in the western U.S. or experiencing our culture in some of our iconic cities in the south.
Posted by Jerome Nicholson (Member # 3116) on :
Greg A- Even if the Zephtr is on time (which it WONT BE), six hours isn't nearly enough time to look at San Francisco if it's your first time there. Imagine being served a sumptuous multi course feast and only having time for the appetizers! I'd get off in Sacramento, the capitol city of California. It's Ok for six or eight hours. Then take the CS to Portland. Save SF for the next trip. For that one, how about flying to SF, then Starlight to LA, then Chief, Canyon, Chief, Cardinal, Adirondack?
Posted by RRRICH (Member # 1418) on :
Greg - I second the motion to take the CZ to Sacramento (or maybe to Martinez, depending on how the CZ does timewise), then catching the N-bd CS (which also may not be on time)
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