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I loved taking my dome car trip to Montreal on the Adirdondack and met some passengers who take dome cars in Canada too. They said the Chaleur was a beautiful ride--has anyone here taken that? The problem with that for me is that I don't rent cars, so I'd have to stay overnight in Gaspe for 2 nights. Has anyone been there? Is there much to do? Maybe I should get on the return train right away and go back to Perce and spent my 2 nights there? Which do you recommend? Also, I know going up on the Adirondack I'd have to overnight in Montreal and spend most of the next day there (no hardship!) before catching the Chaleur. But when I came back on the Chaleur, would I be able to catch the southbound Amtrak Adirondack that morning, or is the Chaleur usually too late to make the connection? And if I miss the connection, can I readily rearrange for the next day?
chrisg Member # 2488
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I've ridden every intercity rail mile in Canada and wrote stories about all of them. Go to: http://www.trainweb.org/chris
Go the 1980 to 1995 stories and you will find aqll of them. Enjoy!
Chris
box283 Member # 5546
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I took the adk/chaleur in sep 2007 and posted a report here...great trip. Someone said it best when they said that "the Chaleur is the hidden gem of the VIA system". The scenery when you wake up on the Gaspe Peninsula is incredible...riding the hills above the Bay of Chaleur, many trestles, mountain and sea, all from a real dome.
Gaspe for 2 days would be ok, but perce would be better...the main attraction in/near gaspe is Forillon Park, which is gorgeous, and has many activities for all fitness levels. We hiked out to Cap Gaspe one day and when we reached the lighthouse we ate a picnic lunch and saw so many whales breach and blow we lost count. A very mellow porcupine was also hanging out with us. We also saw a baby black bear and I climbed up into the Cap de Rosiers lighthouse. The Perce train station is actually 10 minutes away in L'Anse a Beaufils, bust most hotels will pick you up. There are plenty of activities in Perce to keep you busy for 2 days. A trip to Bonaventure Island is a must, as is a dinner at Maison de Pecheur. Hopefully you like to walk. We spent 5 days in Perce and could've stayed at least 2 more and kept busy. It is a beautiful, remote, and very friendly area, and you will get to practice your Francais, as many there are not bi-lingual.
As for connections, I would give yourself a day between, just for peace of mind.
royaltrain Member # 622
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The route of the Chaleur is indeed very scenic. However, you must be warned that this train only runs three days a week out of Montreal (Wednesday, Friday, Sunday) therefore you must either return the same day from Gaspe or wait a few days. For example if you depart Montreal on a Sunday you can either return within about three hours or wait three days for the next departure on Thursday.
This train is also notoriously unreliable when "difficulties" occur. My last trip on the Chaleur was most unpleasant. It was in February and there was a substantial amount of snow in the Gaspe. According to the Via on-board staff a snow plough had become stuck on the track ahead and therefore blocking our train. We never made it to Gaspe, instead we were thrown off the train and bussed a substantial distance back to Campbellton N.B. and were promised sleeper space to return to Montreal. We were lied to, as there was no promised sleeper and overall we were treated very badly. The railway refused to refund the entire price of the ticket and simply took a “we don’t care” attitude.
On other occasions, particularly in the fall, Via claims they cannot run the train because of wet leaves on the track. This past summer the Chaleur did not run for about a month because of problems with a bridge. The taxpayers of Quebec substantially subsidize this rail service and yet Via, who has the contract to run it, is more than happy to substitute a bus whenever it suits them.
If by some miracle the Chaleur is actually running when you arrive in Montreal, then it is indeed a very good train that has a dome car, sleepers and a reasonably good dining facility, not up to the standards of The Canadian but still quite satisfactory.
sojourner Member # 3134
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Yikes, Mr Royal Train . . . I think I would be going in early fall, so snow wouldn't be a problem, but you may have talked me out of going with my husband; he would not like any troubles of the bustitution sort!
Would I miss a lot of the good scenery if I got off in Perce to stay there the 2 nights, instead of going all the way to Gaspe? Or should I go all the way to Gaspe, then take the turnaround train an hour or so later back to Perce, just to see the scenery between Perce and Gaspe? That would mean less time in Perce, more on the train. OR would I miss a lot of good scenery if I got off in PErce and did not go all the way?
Also, does anyone have any hotel advice for Gaspe and/or PErce?
Thanks!!!!!
Henry Kisor Member # 4776
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Sojourner, you might also consider the Ocean from Montreal to Halifax -- the following travel piece from tomorrow's Washington Post suggests it's quite a ride:
(It also brings up the mental picture of VIA Rail hiring Sarah Palin to ride shotgun in the locomotive. You'll see what I mean.)
I'd love to take the Ocean, but would have to fly to Montreal. Chicago-Montreal via Lake Shore Limited and Adirondack is doable, but would require overnighting both ways at Albany, and Albany is not a city that calls out to my heart.
sojourner Member # 3134
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Thanks so much for the link the Washington Post article! I laughed and laughed . . . one of the best train articles I've read in some time.
I'm told the Chaleur is more scenic than the Ocean, but Halifax would definitely be more interesting to my husband. One of the problems, though, seems to be the cost--in season, the Easterly rates on the Ocean are pretty exorbitant (much higher than the one quoted in the article) And I believe there is no dome car off season on the Ocean? Or that you cannot access it if you don't take the Easterly rates? Anyway, even the Chaleur is too high in summer; we'd have to go on the cusp. I'm still looking into what is OPEN in Perce if you don't go in summer; have to do the same for Gaspe and Halifax. I wouldn't want to go when you cannot, for example, take the ferry out to that little island by Perce, etc etc. It's all tres dificile. . . .
BTW, M. Kisor, Albany isn't so bad, esp if you arrive late and leave early hahaha. But actually, the Empire State Mall (Rockefeller's Elephant) has a nice little free state museum in which the permanent collection includes, among other things, a sad but interesting 9-11 exhibit, a very nice little NYS gem and mineral collection, an old subway car, and an old carousel (on a different floor) that you MUST ride--they do run it!!!; plus the state capitol itself (near the mall, and connected underground) is one of my very favorite state capitols of those I have visited--different on the outside than the usual rotunda type, and really ornate and interesting on the inside, with really good tour guides when I went (and I've actually done it twice lately)--also free. There is even, somewhat further up the hill on Washington Av, the Albany Institute of Art, a small museum (not free but not very costly) with some good stuff of its own and sometimes some very interesting little exhibits (I once saw a terrific one of Golden Age Dutch art there). Downtown Albany is getting a bit tawdrier in this economic crunch, but you can stay for a very reasonable rate (esp weekends, I think?) at the Hampton Inn (walking distance of the Empire State Mall etc, though a very steep hill; but there is good cab service in Albany too). You'd also need to cab it from the train station to the hotel; the station is actually in Rensselaer, across the (narrow here) Hudson. In season there are boat rides, and there is the U.S.S. Slater I think, down by the river, plus you can walk over from Broadway to the Cornell Preserve along the river; and you can see the old D&H Building, now owned by SUNY, at the foot of State Street, really impressive, and sometimes with exhibits. There are also concerts at the Egg, also part of the Empire State Mall. And up by Washington Park there are nice townhouses and various festivals in the park, e.g., tulip festival in summer. We walk up to all these things; once you do the hill, the rest is a lot easier. There is also a little gallery over on New Scotland Avenue (past Albany Medical Center), open weekdays . . . and way uptown is SUNY Albany, which has some stuff going on sometimes (and I think free buses to their downtown campuses, which are sort of midtown, if one can use these terms in what is just a smallish city).
But I confess, I would not stay there BOTH ways, that is a bit much more of Albany than would be necessary. How about you go all the way to NYC one way, and just do Albany the other? Or you could take the Capital LTd to DC and stay there, and catch a very early train to connect with the Adirondack; or stay somewhere less expensive, like Philly or even Newark, though I wouldn't stay in the latter I know people who stay in the Hilton by the train station there.
Or if you can swing a decent price, consider that new hotel in Rhinecliff, NY (50 minutes S of Albany, about 100 minutes N of NYC), called The Rhinecliff, right by the train station. It just opened this summer and is pretty nice; I heard Bill & Hill stayed there, and I've heard too it has good (but pricey) food. Or you can take a cab into Rhinebeck, just 2 miles away, to see the oldest hotel in America and eat in one of the other (mostly but not all overpriced) restaurants.
Or you could do an overnight one way in Michigan, Windsor, or Sarnia, using Amtrak Chi to Michigan and VIA Rail to get to Montrealm . . . something like that? I doubt your hotel price would be too high. . .
CN 6060 Fan Member # 3093
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I’d don’t think I would let the rare possibility of a bustitution or thoughts of the bridge problems of last summer interfere with the enjoyment of a trip on the Chaleur....it’s a great ride. These problems could happen on any train route at any time.
VIA will provide buses when the train cannot continue.....unlike Amtrak where I have been left on my own. And I have always been well compensated by VIA for the minor inconvenience of the bus ride. For the vast majority of passengers, I’ve noted that it’s really no big deal and all part of the adventure of travel.
So go ahead and enjoy the Chaleur. Lots of people do the same day turn around at Gaspe. But if you want to stay a couple of days, I would recommend Perce. And ride through to Gaspe first, getting of at Perce on the return.
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we went the weekend after labor day...better rates, no crowds and gorgeous weather...all the attractions were still open
as far as taking the train all the way to gaspe-there is some very nice scenery on that stretch...the wife and i rode all the way, rented a car in gaspe and drove back down to perce...we rented a chalet at pic de l'aurore. since you cannot rent a car, and perce is better suited to a multi-day stay, getting off at anse a beaufils might be the better option
David Member # 3
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One can get in big trouble with North American railfans by saying unkind things about bus travel, so I shall be careful. The odds are in your favour that you will actually get to Gaspé by train, but that route has more bustitutions than any other and it is only fair that you be made aware of this. This year has been particularly bad. It is, of course, not VIA’s fault that a bridge was washed out near Matapédia this summer and that it took about seven weeks to replace it. It was posted on a Canadian railfans’ site that one day there was a shortage of engine crew so the Chaleur was bustituted all the way from Montréal to Gaspé. This is an overnight bus trip of 1047 kilometres - certainly not a minor inconvenience. Just before the bridge on the Matapédia to Gaspé line was re-opened, there was a derailment a little west of Matapédia which resulted in the closure of that line. Rather than run the Chaleur as far as they could between Montréal and the derailment site, they used “alternate transportation” (to use what VIA employees call “VIA-speak.”) Most of the residents of the Gaspé region are not railfans and therefore they were furious about this lengthy bustitution. (It was reported in the press.)The Ocean was re-routed via Edmunston and because of the better CN track the train actually operated on time and occasionally early for a while.
I am still trying to prove to my wife that you can get to Gaspé by train and we are planning our fourth attempt of this year later this month. I have not heard of any problems with leaves on the line this autumn. The F-40 locomotives used on this route were built with sanders, but according to VIA personnel they were de-activated and thus the train sometimes cannot get up the grades. The other problem you could face is VIA’s inexcusable habit of short-turning the Chaleur at New Carlisle if it is late. The degree of lateness is variable, but if it is more than two hours late the passengers will probably be treated to “alternate transportation.” On a trip two years ago we were just an hour and a half late and even so the Service Manager had not been informed whether VIA’s “bright bulbs” would allow us to proceed beyond New Carlisle. It was not until we got to New Carlisle and didn’t see the dreaded “you-know-what” that we knew we were going to be allowed to have the train trip for which we had paid.
But if the train runs as promised, it is a most enjoyable trip. The service is friendly, the food fairly good and the fares reasonable. I recommend a modest splurge on a drawing room, or triple bedroom as it is now officially called. Whether you need the extra space or not, the two lower beds make it a very comfortable experience. If purchased at least three days in advance, the off-peak one-way fare Montréal-Gaspé for two passengers in a double bedroom is $371.36 (including tax) and $424.42 in the triple room. Meals are not included. All the people I know who have taken the drawing room, and that includes me, agree the surcharge is money well spent – a mere $53.06 each way at the current fare.
graynt Member # 17
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We stayed a couple of nights in Perce right after Labor Day. Few crowds, warm weather and incredible scenery. We drove, so Gaspe s park and other attractions were in reach. A few years ago I took the train from Montreal to Perce and back that same day. Didn't see much of Perce,as someone mentioned the train station is about ten minutes south of town, but the scenery on the Chaleur is incredible. I was seated with a French speaking woman for dinner, and as I don't speak French and she didn't speak English, it was hard not to comment on the passing scenery so I said "manufique" which she readily understood.
If your hotel would pick you up at the Perce station, Perce is a quaint little town with restaurants within walking distance and Bonaventure Island a short walk to the ferry. We stayed at a beautiful place called "La Normandie"
Enjoy the journey, Indeed it is one of Via's best kept secrets.
SilverStar092 Member # 2652
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By all means take the Chaleur as it is a beautiful route. It is worth riding all the way into Gaspe as beyond Perce it crosses a tall trestle over a valley where the autumn leaves may be spectacular and crosses a couple of small bays on causeways then follows the beaches a ways. I would take the return train to Perce as long as a motel will pick you up since the station is out of town. Gaspe isn't an inspiring town and all three times I went there, I rented a car and drove to Perce. Given your dislike of car rentals, the train to Perce will be fine assuming there is motel transportation. The place we have stayed each time is called Motel Mirage du Rocher (motel with a view of the rock). It offers a fine view of Perce Rock. The tour boat to Bonaventure Island is great and you will see a lot of birds. Perce is a very relaxing place and you will be glad you went there...very walkable. I agree that overnights in Montreal are best as the Chaleaur can run late and missing the Adirondack would raise many problems such as finding a hotel, booking train seats the next day, etc. Better safe than sorry and Montreal is a nice city.
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