To its critics, the S.S. Badger is a relic and a menace, a coal-fired car ferry that dumps tons of raw coal ash into Lake Michigan each year as it plies its four-hour route between Manitowoc, Wis., and Ludington, Mich.
To its friends in the halls of Congress, the Badger is a national historic treasure, a ship from a bygone era worth saving from the bureaucrats of the Environmental Protection Agency, even if it means skirting the line on the Republicans’ sacred ban on Congressional earmarks
One must wonder if The Times reporter actually sailed on her (the article is not by their Chicago bureau chief, Monica Davey). I can recall some recent columns of Gail Collins that were datelined Williston ND. As she described her flight on a "puddle jumper" and her stay at a "budget" hotel, all I could think was "sophisticated New Yorker lands in flyover country".
As a side note, I doubt if either Ms. Collins or especially The Times travel desk even knew of the Builder and its convenient overnight schedule from MSP.
Posted by TwinStarRocket (Member # 2142) on :
The S.S. Badger is also the connector for US Highway 10 which runs right onto each ferry dock on either side of the lake. From 1926 until the Interstates were built, US 10 ran from Detroit to Seattle. From St. Paul westward, US 10 ran along the tracks of the NP North Coast Limited (later the route of Amtrak's North Coast Hiawatha).
So this is train related in a Kevin Bacon sort of way.
Posted by Gilbert B Norman (Member # 1541) on :
OK folks, here is the Gail Collins column datelined Williston. Again as I noted "sophisticated New Yorker visits the Oil Patch". It appears she flew to Minot and rented from there:
I still wonder would have she used the Builder if either she or The Times travel desk knew of it? Somehow I think in this isolated instance, that is a choice she would have more enjoyed.
Since I'm from New York and have known my way around 10021 (Upper East Side) since I was a kid, I know perfectly able people who simply have never learned how to drive (afford a car garaged in Manhattan? not even an issue). Ms. Collins (unless The Times sent a driver companion with her) apparently does, but from the tone of her column, she did not appear to enjoy it.
OK, now let's address a Times column by Frank Bruni in which rail travel is hardly the thrust of such, but shows to what extent Acela is part of the "intelligentsia" mindset in the Northeast:
I once took a long train ride with Grover Norquist. This wasn’t intentional. We found ourselves next to each other on the line to board an Acela from Washington, D.C., to New York, and we fell into a conversation, by which I mean that he did a great deal of talking, in that faintly maniacal way of his, while I presented a captive audience. He continued to talk as we walked along the platform and was still talking as we entered the train, so it was more or less unavoidable that we sit together. Besides which, I was genuinely fascinated, which is a very different adjective from amused.
Posted by palmland (Member # 4344) on :
GBN- Wish I had known there was a chance it would not be operating again as it is on my bucket list. Travel by ship (or ferry) is almost as pleasant as train travel and its history adds to its appeal. The C&O had quite a fleet of ferries and considered the ports of Manitowac and Milwaukee as online destinations.
TSR- Not on topic, but just finished a fascinating article about the Zephyr Rocket. One of those under the radar trains that would have been fun to ride and which, as an easterner, I was not really aware of. If you haven't seen it, check out the current issue of the TRRA Historical Society publication.
Posted by Gilbert B Norman (Member # 1541) on :
Zephyr Rocket; rode it Jan 1962 Cedar Rapids-St Louis. While in St Louis, I stayed at the Union Station Terminal Hotel for which the rate was less than my Housekeeper's tip during September 2010 when staying at its successor Marriott.
C&O ferries; both the City of Midland and the Badger. Love Tubs they ain't; but quite a travel experience nevertheless.
Posted by Henry Kisor (Member # 4776) on :
I rode the Badger in 1951 from Muskegon to (I think) Milwaukee. All I can remember of the voyage was being violently sick just before boarding because of the terrible stench from the paper mill close to the dock.
In about 1960 I rode a ferry from Manitowoc to Muskegon, but don't remember what it was. It might have been the Badger. I remember the heavy coal smoke.
It's NOT on my bucket list.
Posted by Iron Mountain (Member # 12411) on :
I have sailed on the SS Badger three times. Twice from Manitowoc and once from Ludington. I thought it was great fun. My wife and I journeyed across the lake. Then I took my three boys at a later date across the lake for the experience of traveling over water on a coal fired ship the size of the Badger. Very special memories.
I studied some of its history and was fascinated to learn that it was a main cog in the C&O's transportation system in the Great Lakes region. If I remember correctly at one time the railroad ferry service across the lake was a big industry.
I read the NYT article and the comments in GBN's post. First I would like to see some comparative figures on how much "green house gas" is produced by wheeled vehicles driving around the south end of the lake via Milwaukee, Chicago,and Gary. I would think that the Badger's pollution contribution would have to be balanced somewhat by those idle non-polluting vehicles riding in her hold. That is a long trip by land.
Second, Durbin needs to mind his own fiscally sorry state. Illinois is one of the most debt ridden and financially irresponsible states out of the 50. I would think that he has enough to deal with without meddling with the Badger.
Third, I would think that the Badger's pollution quantities are miniscule when compared to what Chicago and Milwaukee spew out on a daily basis.
Fourth there are many major issues that the busy-bodies and "activists" (whatever their cause) should be more concerned with than the Badger.
And finally, Palmland, keep the Badger on your bucket list. It is a wonderful experience. The loading and unloading is fascinating. The waters of Lake Michigan are beautiful. They range in color from green to deep blue and other shades as the depth changes.
Bon Voyage.
PS AS GBN intimated the Badger is not a luxury cruise. It is rather spartan. It retains its working class mentality. And that is its charm. The food is great. The adult beverages are great. And there is plenty of deck to enjoy the trip.
Posted by RRRICH (Member # 1418) on :
My only experience with Lake Michigan ferries is once, back in the 50's, when our family took the C & O (? - or was it the Ann Arbor RR?) "Spartan" across Lake Michigan from Milwaukee to Ludington (overnight trip), enroute to our cabin up here in Grayling.
Posted by palmland (Member # 4344) on :
Iron Mountain, no doubt those who are after the coal fired Badger will soon be after the tourist railroads that operate steam engines regardless of the historic value.
Early in my career I had a fellow management traines who had spent his summers as a waiter on the C&O's cross lake ferries. Sorry to hear it's a bit spartan now. By his accounts it was every bit as good as the excellent food and silver/linen service on their dining cars. We've got a road scheduled for this summer; hope it's still operating.
Posted by Gilbert B Norman (Member # 1541) on :
Railroad car ferry service ended during 1983. My rides on the Badger and the City of Midland included railcars; quite an experience to be aboard as a boxcar laden with paper products like newsprint were loaded.
The X-lake routing was quite important to the paper mills in Northern Wisconsin as those shippers held that X-lake was necessary to keep both my MILW and the C&NW with a Chi interchange to whoever from the "sock it to 'em". However, X-lake represented a short haul for my road and which included a line haul for the Green Bay & Western (now CN). As the ferry frequencies and capacity was curtailed, often the traffic was simply handled to Chicago and interchanged there with the C&O; the GB&W got their division for doing absolutely nothing.
Of interest, X-lake was a recognized term included on Bills of Lading and Waybills denoting such routing.
But the ferries were hopeless economic casualties. Imagine the Engineers and Boilermen needed that simply are replaced by one Engineer today on a diesel powered vessel with all engines controlled by a throttle on the bridge. Imagine full meals being served (mainly for the crew; the passengers were simply ancillary revenue), and imagine anyone assigned to that vessel earning in Today's $$$$ likely $100K plus bennies.
How the private operator "makes it" as an excursion boat escapes me - maybe he doesn't - and doesn't care (whoops; shouldn't say that too loud lest the IRS disallow the activity as a business and consider it a hobby).
Posted by palmland (Member # 4344) on :
I resurrected this old thread as I finally crossed off my bucket list a cross lake trip on the SS Badger as part of a long summer road trip.
During summer it makes two trips each way and one in late spring and early fall. Even though it was designed to break Lake Michigan ice the old lady gets a rest during winter. Environmentalists here will be happy to know the fly ash is no longer dumped in the water. The tracks are still in place in the vessel but long gone from entrance areas. A splurge of $49 got us a stateroom for the four hour trip and some of the fixtures reminded me of a 50's era sleeping car. Great trip and I highly recommend it. If you go be sure and sample the House of Flavors in Ludington. Best ice cream I've ever had (cherry amarreto).
Posted by PullmanCo (Member # 1138) on :
GBN: A mutual friend has encouraged me to take the Badger on a future trip into Chicagoland.
