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Now that the Empire Builder schedule is back to normal, I'm thinking of a possible trip to Montana, this summer, and I have some questions.
What I have in mind is a flight from Santa Rosa to Portland, Oregon. Then take the eastbound EB #28 headed to Spokane then on to Montana.
Detraining in Whitefish, the next morning, I would then rent a car at the Whitefish Amtrak depot. After spending the morning walking around Whitefish, I would drive over to Essex for a stay at the Izaak Walton Inn.
The next day, I'm thinking of driving over to Bigfork, Mt. by the shore of Flathead Lake. I've never been to Bigfork but I have driven around Flathead Lake, a really scenic drive. The next day would be a return to Whitefish to board the EB for the return trip to Portland. _______________________________________
*I will have a 2 hour layover, in Portland, before getting on EB #28. If I am hungry enough for lunch, I remember someone saying there's a nice restaurant inside the airport terminal, at the Portland airport. Can anyone recall the name of that restaurant?
*If I don't have lunch at the airport, is there a shop, within walking distance of the Amtrak Portland Union Station, for coffee and pastry?
*A number of years ago, there was an issue regarding meal service aboard EB #28 eastbound. It was either a problem with limited meal service or no dining car on #28. Does #28 have regular dining car service and, if not, what meal service is available?
*Does anyone know the hours and days the Great Northern RR Museum (Stumptown Museum), in Whitefish, is open? The last time I was there it seemed that the days/hours varied.
*Any suggestions for a good place for breakfast in the town of Whitefish?
*I've never been to the Izaak Walton Inn. As I would probably arrive during the noon hour, how accommodating is the Izaak Walter with regard to early check-ins (assuming, of course, that your room would be ready)?
*I see the Izaak Walton has lodge rooms, luxury rail car rooms, and caboose rooms. Are the lodge rooms nicer than the latter, the same, or vice versa?
*Does the Izaak Walton have some sort of outdoor tables where you can have a beer and sandwich and watch the trains go by?
*I get a travel magazine which, a few months ago, had a write-up on Bigfork, Montana. Good restaurants and lodging. Has anyone ever been to Bigfork, Montana?
I will appreciate any answers I can get to the above questions.
Richard
Gilbert B Norman Member # 1541
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Richard, I understand that for Sleeper passengers there is complimentary cold meal service. Who knows what that entails.
Regarding Issac Walton, during 2004, my Niece and my Brother in Law stayed there. They wanted to stay in the Park, but "no room at the Inn". I said to both that it is some kind of "Mecca" for railfans. Neither being such, their comment was "those trains kept both of us awake; one was gone and here comes another".
yukon11 Member # 2997
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Shucks, sounds like no dining car, Mr. Norman.
A complimentary cold meal, even though it's complimentary, doesn't sound too inviting. Maybe there will be a nice deli at the Portland airport where I can get a sandwich and pack it away for the meal on Amtrak #28.
No room at the park? Well, I guess that might be possible during peak summer months. If Bigfork doesn't work out, I may try the Apgar Village Inn, in West Glacier. I understand their dining room meals are excellent.
The lodge (cabins) I'm thinking of, in Bigfork, may be a problem. My AAA tour book says that the stay is "3 days, minimum". That kind of irks me. Last year, I was going to stay at a hotel, in downtown Bend, Oregon. They insisted on a 2 day minimum stay, but 2 days would have been too long.
I guess more motels/hotels have minimum stay periods for economic reasons. However, I think there might be diminishing returns as many people, going from A-B-C, may not have the time for extra days, and may opt for a different hotel or motel.
Richard
Mike Smith Member # 447
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The cold meals on the Portland section have been fairly good. They do not look like much, but they are tasty. My wife and I ate all of our meals the three times we had them on that section of the train.
TwinStarRocket Member # 2142
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I had breakfast at the Swift Creek Cafe in Whitefish, about 4-5 blocks from Amtrak (307 2nd St E) and found the food and the service excellent. It is small and can get crowded. http://swiftcreekcafe.com/
It is hard to go wrong with dining in Whitefish, and the atmosphere in most places reflects a rugged outdoorsy theme.
DonNadeau Member # 61606
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Three things.
A two-hour connection from an airport to Amtrak is wildly overoptimistic in any city and especially when using Charles M. Schulz–Sonoma County Airport (love the name), where rerouting options are nil in case of a cancelled, delayed, or overbooked flight.
Please don't do that! For your safety, stay overnight in Portland or at least book a much earlier flight.
Unlike King Street Station in Seattle, a nicely restored museum piece with little consideration for the comfort of its users, the Portland station actually has some food available beyond the vending machine chips and candy found in Seattle.
Please consider extending your itinerary into Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, right next door.
yukon11 Member # 2997
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Thanks for the suggestion, Don. My flight out of Schultz airport, last year, was 1.5 hrs late, so a 2 hr window to get from the Portland airport to the Amtrak station might not work. I will plan an overnight stay in Portland.
I haven't been back to Waterton Park, Alberta, in 40 yrs. I have a nice photo of the Prince of Wales Hotel on a slide. Going to have to do Waterton Park, again, before long.
Richard
DonNadeau Member # 61606
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Thanks, Richard.
There's a railway museum in Portland that I want to visit. You pass it when taking the CS.
Interestingly, Canada has a Glacier National Park (not nearby). It includes the section of Canadian Pacific's trans-con that was by far the most difficult to build.
palmland Member # 4344
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Richard, we were in Glacier two years ago. Spectacular park, especially the east side. If you're taking the train in from Portland, why not stay on it until East Glacier. Outstanding trip through the park on the train and the NP narrator was knowledgeable and articulate. We rented a car at East Glacier at the seasonal (May-Sept) Avis office in the interesting Glacier Park Trading Co., a short walk from the station. While we made a brief stop in Whitefish, it was about like most mountain tourist towns, but the park itself is worthy of lots of time and hikes into remoter areas. You could delay your car rental a day by staying at the Glacier Park Hotel. Truly an iconic National Park lodge. It's easy to overlook the somewhat dated rooms (why would you spend time there anyway) with that blazing walk-in fireplace in the lobby. A Red Jammer will deliver you and luggage to the station (photo).
We sampled breakfast westbound on the EB into Portland and found it a definite cut above normal Amtrak food. We were presented our breakfast in a box by our attendant and enjoyed it as much as the diner. It was a treat to eat while snuggled in our lower berth as the train followed the Columbia river in the early morning light.
You said you also might try Apgar Village Inn if you don't go to Bigfork. Let me suggest an alternative that is about a mile away but well located as this photos shows. The Belton Chalet is a historic, well, chalet. We had lunch at the Issac Walton and much prefer our time at Belton. Great restaurant on the property and more importantly, a long passing siding ends there and there was often a train on it waiting for a train to clear the tunnel. If you stay there ask for a room with a balcony. You could also take the train to Belton (Amtrak calls it West Glacier). Photo shows the unstaffed station but with a nice little museum.
We were there in May. While the Going to the Sun highway wasn't fully open yet, the weather was beautiful, the park was uncrowded, and easy to make reservations.
yukon11 Member # 2997
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Mr. Palmland: I made mention of the Apgar Village Inn when I really meant to say Belton Chalet. I had a friend who stayed there, a number of times, and always enjoyed his stay. He especially gave praise to the meals served.
Some friends and I took the red bus tour from West Glacier to Logan Pass, about 3 years ago. On the way back, we wanted to stop at the Belton Chalet for dinner, but couldn't find it! Probably due to bad directions on how to get there.
I took Amtrak #28, to Montana, about 15 years ago. I really enjoyed the route along the Columbia Gorge and was amazed how the terrain was different from one side of the river to the other.
I once lived 20 min. east of East Glacier and went to the East Glacier Lodge for dinner, a few times. However, I was always told the rooms were quite expensive and not all that great. Possibly things have changed over the years.
Great photos!
Richard
RRRICH Member # 1418
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Richard -- in Portland, there is a very nice restaurant next door to the AMTRAK station, called Wilf's -- I believe it is actually in the same building as the station, HOWEVER, as I sadly found out on my trip last summer, Wilf's is only open M-F, and closed on weekends.
Isaak Walton Inn is an EXCELLENT place to stay, My wife and I stayed there a few years ago, and the staff were always pleasant and accommodating. I don't think you will have a problem checking in early there. And yes, there are several picnic tables in front of the main lodge, where you can sit and watch trains. There is also a short trail to an overpass over the BNSF line, which is an excellent place to watch the trains pass by beneath the bridge.
We stayed in the main lodge. I don't know much about the "caboose" accommodations, except most of them are across the tracks from the main lodge, and across the footbridge mentioned above. I hear they are nice, but, as I said,we did not stay in them. I believe there may also be a couple of them on the same side of the RR as the main lodge.
For touring Glacier Park, the red Jammer buses will pick you up at Isaak Walton, but you need to reserve them ahead of time (probably several months ahead of time if you are planning a summertime visit).
Others above have mentioned Glacier Park Lodge, which is adjacent to AMTRAK's East Glacier station. The Glacier Park Lodge is only open during the summer; Izaak Walton at Essex is open year-round.
dns8560 Member # 15184
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Those are nice photos!
realbtl Member # 147328
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This post convinced me to sign up since I'm a train buff and I live in Bigfork MT. Here are some suggestions for your trip. 1. Best breakfast in Whitefish is the Buffalo Cafe, about 3 blocks from the station. 2. Good eats in Bigfork, Echo Lake Cafe for breakfast or lunch, Showtime ($$) for dinner. 3. If you want to stay in Bigfork try Marina Cay, condos with some overlooking the bay. 4. It's only about 20 miles to Kalispell where there are most of the major hotel chains. I think that would be my choice. 5. Silver Wolf Chalets between West Glacier and Columbia Falls is another lodging option. 6. Be aware that Logan Pass (Going to the Sun) often opens early to mid-July. We haven't had much snow since early Feb so it may open earlier. Check the Glacier NP website for updates.
I'll follow this so if you have anymore questions let me know. Enjoy.
yukon11 Member # 2997
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Thanks to everyone for giving me some great information!
Welcome aboard, Realbtl! You live in a beautiful part of the country.
I think I'll try Twinstar's suggestion of the Swift Creek Cafe, for breakfast, my 1st day in Whitefish. Then, the Buffalo Cafe, for breakfast, my last day in Whitefish.
The last time in Whitefish I had dinner at "Latitude 48" and it was a good dinner. I have also heard that the Tupelo Grille as a very good place for dinner (?). My favorite is the Sweet Peaks ice cream parlor on 3rd St.
I see, in my AAA tour book, the Echo Lake Cafe, outside of Bigfork, is highly recommended. I managed to get a reservation at the Bridge St. Cottages in Bigfork. My AAA tour book says they have a 3 day minimum stay. After calling them, I found out the tour book has bad information. The Bridge Street Cottages accept 1 night stays.
After calling the Izaak Walton, it appears that their most expensive room is their luxury caboose. However, I booked a lodge room instead, A little less expensive but quite adequate. By the way, my hotel, in Portland, has a 2 day minimum stay if you arrive on a weekend. However, as I will stay at the same hotel on the way back, they counted my 2nd stay as part of the 2 day minimum.
Richard
realbtl Member # 147328
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I forgot about Bridge St. have heard they are nice and they are right downtown so you can walk to everything. Downtown Bigfork is only 2 blocks long and parking is a mess so you should be in good shape staying there.
If you have an hour to kill I recommend driving down to Swan Lake. It's very pretty and I often take a motorcycle ride down just to check on it.
sojourner Member # 3134
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Sorry I just got back on board lately and did not see this.
First, the cold meals I've had on the Portland branch of the EB are fine--and my sleeping car attendant brought them to us in the observation car, which was great. It's a lovely ride down the Columbia River Gorge, and much nicer having the observation car than the diner (on the Seattle branch) in my opinion. I mean, what's one more steak dinner, same old same old?!?!? But, of course, to each his own. . .
This will be my 3rd time in Whitefish. I didn't even know about Whitefish Lake until I saw an ad for the Lodge at Whitefish Lake. I tried to book a room there, for one night, but the night I wanted was sold out. Will stay at the Grosse Mountain Lodge, instead.
I will definitely try the Piggyback BBQ. Also, the Montana Coffee Trader. And, of course, Sweet Peaks.
Thanks, again.
Richard
realbtl Member # 147328
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Richard- If you are interested in cars there is a Flathead Ford V8 museum in Bigfork, a pristine model of each year's offering plus some trucks w/flatheads. All stock and it is free. The only drawback is that their hours are kind of erratic. On the west side of the road as you come down Hwy 35 into town.
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