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Forum Members... I am interested in buying a few brass locomotives. ( Overland Models ) My questions are these: What type of power is used in brass models? How powerful are the average engines? Can they pull many cars? Are they able to pull a passenger consist of 7 cars and climb a 2-3% grade? Are they smooth running, or are they noisy? I would think for the amount of $$$$ you pay, they would be nothing, but top notch! Any information will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, to all of you who make this forum so much fun to use!! Your modeling buddy, Richard Posts: 144 | From: Yanceyville,NC. USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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That is one dicey subject. I know a guy who has nothing but brass, steam and diesel. He only buys top of the line imports and he has trouble with them. Price doesn't seem to eliminate problems. Usually the higher the price the more detail you get. Ilook at it this way, if I'm going to put out big bucks for Brass power and rolling stock, it better work. I pick mine up at swap meets and with a little TLC I can usually come up with an acceptable performer. The most I ever paid was $1100 for a Max Gray S.P. AC-6 that was totally reworked. And superdetailed and painted. I can truthfully say I won't do that again.
Good Luck, Bob C.
Posts: 39 | From: Canyon Country, CA 91351 | Registered: Oct 2000
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Brass models are mostly known for their accurate (for the most part) representation of models not other wise available. The issues surrounding a purchase of a brass locomotive are the following.
1. Depending upon its age, it may or may not have a coreless motor. Other types are noisy and can be a problem, especially for DCC 2. If they were not factory painted, then you run the risk that someone may have painted it and not prepped it correctly. This can lead to problems with the finish and even running problems due to contact issues. 3. If they are factory painted then they have been tested to run correctly, but not necessarily as well as they might.
As with any model, you might end up with a "hitch in the get along" as I used to hear, or some other smooth running issue. Many older models needed to be "tuned". I have not bought a new model in years, but I suspect that the standards have improved with the cost and technology. So I guess, if it is an older model, you should be prepared to work with it.
In any case, I think you will find that the motors are fine, but they often need extra weight to make the grade...literally.
Good luck
Posts: 62 | From: Carmel, Indiana, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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Richard, I have a love/hate relationship with brass locos. They are beautiful once they are finished lighted etc. But are they worth the enormous price you pay? Questionable-- especially with the improved Like Like and Bachmann locos and others on the market today. Right now I have about 15 brass locos and I've probably owned 40 or so. In VERY FEW instances have I not had multiple problems with the running performance of these engines!!! What is worse it always seems to be somthing different and very subtle or complicated, requireing the reworking of the running gear or a momentary short somewhere in the loco/tender lashup, etc, etc, etc. In many cases I've had to purchase a second loco to salvage parts just to keep one running. I also have several Bowser locomotives that I have built and superdetailed myself to the specifications of a certain prototype, both Mo-Pac and D&RGW--even won a contest with one of them. As far as running reliability and noise if these are assembled correctly they can't be beat. There may be very minor differences from a specific prototype but the trade off is operational reliability. Now grant you, I run primarily steam on 32" radii or greater. I do not have much experience with the brass deisels. They are probably bore reliable than steamers because there is less running gear. But there are so many real quality plastic bodied deisels on the market, and so many superdetailing parts for them that I really don't get the point of brass deisels at all. So---I guess the summation of this long winded speech is that I think you get alot more bang for you modeling buck going other directions than brass. Let me know what you decide. Scott
Posts: 127 | From: Gunnison, CO, USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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There are blokes in our club, that have scrapped brass as a bad joke.
They are not new to model trains, with one having a shop and 20+ yrs, and as a topic on another board Im on, the general vote was 90% against them as a waste of money, but 95% said they had good detail...
None will run out of the box, without work..
------------------ RR: K, C, & Bird Butt Railroad - SP, NS, and ROCK admirer. Its a coal mining region of a place far far away, that shares with SP, NS, and some CSX.. Also some Custom RARE Bird RR sd40-2's coming! Era:
Time stands still round these parts, and we have everything from Steam, to Diesels of today.
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Not all brass is bad. I bought 2 Sunset M1a 4-8-0s last summer that run real well and guietly. It seems that the brass makers are taking better care these days to make sure that their locos run as well as they look. Last Sun I had the opportunity to see an at least 10 year old brass 2-8-0 run at my local shop. It ran pretty well although it was a bit noisy,a good run-in would probably fix that. I agree that in the past you had to do a lot of tinkering on some of these locos to get them running well. I have owned 5 different brass locos and only 1 of them needed work to get it running. Of course my experience might be the exception, but many of the Narrow Guagers here in town run mostly brass, and they arent having problems. I think that as long as you have the oppertunity to see a loco run before you buy it you will have a much better chance of getting a good running brass loco......Mike Posts: 97 | From: Columbus Ohio USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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bought an overland twin-cities hiawatha 4-4-2 class 'a' atlantic for $350. 48 hr. warranty that i overlooked. tried running it and it wouldn't even humm. MILW modeler told me that the loco picks up power via the tender (on 1 track) and the loco driving wheels pick up power (on the the opposite track). the tender's power is passed to the engine via the tender's drawbar. my 1st brass engine and not happy. i haven't taken the engine down, but i couldn't see any sign of contacts anywhere w/flashlight and magnifier. so much for my 1st brass experience. :mad
Posts: 5 | From: waupaca, wi USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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This is for oldrr. Don't give up on your 4-4-2. All Brass steam use that method for power pick-up. 1) Try adding a little wieght to the tender. 2) Check the draw bar and make sure it has a piece of spring or music wire soldered to it for constant electrical pick-up. 3) Make sure the draw bar is insulated from the loco frame with fiber washers and plastic screws(Walthers sells these in various sizes. 4) Check your motor mounting to make sure there aren't any shorts. 5) Take off the boiler and tender bodies to see if it runs. 6) One of the first things I do is check the quartering of the drivers. An easy way is to take the monkey gear and side rods off one side. If it runs the wheels are out of quarter and need adjusting. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse. As the others replies to this thread brass can be a problem.
Bob Cochran
Posts: 39 | From: Canyon Country, CA 91351 | Registered: Oct 2000
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Everyone, There are two more comments about brass locos I would like to add. I think the biggest problem most model rr's have is that the price does not live up to the performance without having to break them down and do quite a bit of rewoking, which can be frustrating and drive you to make wall art out of them. (A good fast knuckleball type throw will make a brass 2-8-2 stick right in drywall if you can get it between the studs! ) The upside is that, like I said before, they do look great if you ever get one running. If you are new to the hobby or are looking at brass for the first time, don't do it! Spend the money ($100-$150) on a kit loco first.(Bowser for example) build it and learn the basic construction of running gear etc. You will be far better prepared for what you might run into with the brass. It might also turn out well enough you decide against the brass all together! Anyone with questions give me a shout! STEAM LIVES! Scott
Posts: 127 | From: Gunnison, CO, USA | Registered: Jul 2000
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especially with the improved Like Like and Bachmann locos and others on the market today. 
have I not had multiple problems with the running performance of these engines!!! What is worse it always seems to be somthing different and very subtle or complicated, requireing the reworking of the running gear or a momentary short somewhere in the loco/tender lashup, etc, etc, etc. In many cases I've had to purchase a second loco to salvage parts just to keep one running.
i haven't taken the engine down, but i couldn't see any sign of contacts anywhere w/flashlight and magnifier. so much for my 1st brass experience. :mad
