Does anyone know how to connect track at a removable section? I have finally concluded, in my layout design, rather than have some really tight turnarounds, I would rather have a removable, or tilt, section by the door entrance to my room. That way I can just run all the way around the walls of the room. I have looked at Westcott's Model Railroad Benchwork book. Its good for the benchwork part but doesn't describe how the track hooks together.
Posted by slimjim375 (Member # 199) on :
Very carefully . This has been a problem for years. The main problem being from expansion and contraction and alignment. No matter how you do it, it will require realignment from time to time. If I were going to do it, I would have it removeable and use vertical pins for the alignment at each end. You also have to use guard rails at the gaps and bevel the ends of the rail. As per electrical, just use a plug-in jumper.
Several years ago I was quite fortunate to visit Jack Parker of Central Valley Products train layout. He has several bridges on his layout and he showed me a simple way to have a removable bridge. 1) Solder rail joiners to the approach tracks and carefully spread the bridge end of the rail joiners so the bridge tracks will drop in easily but not to loose. 2) Trim the inside of the rail joiner below track level on the inside of the rail to prevent derailments and possible bridge damage. 3) As Jim Harwood mentioned use a guide pin at each end for track alignment, wood doweling works well and reduces the chance of electrical problems. You can either permanently glue the dowel on the road bed or the bridge, however you decide to do it. Hope This will help you out.
Bob Cochran
Posted by Bob Cochran (Member # 210) on :
Check the web at index.mrmag.com, it is the index for most Train Magazines for the las 68 years. Very informative.
. This has been a problem for years. The main problem being from expansion and contraction and alignment. No matter how you do it, it will require realignment from time to time. If I were going to do it, I would have it removeable and use vertical pins for the alignment at each end. You also have to use guard rails at the gaps and bevel the ends of the rail. As per electrical, just use a plug-in jumper.