I'm getting ready to use Atlas flextrack in my first layout and its not obvious to me how you connect flextrack. the connectors don't fit between the track and ties. Do you cut out the tie?
Posted by Mike C (Member # 35) on :
Yes cut the ties where nessassary. then after the track is connected replace the ties after trimming off the spike detials...Mike Posted by dragondawg (Member # 29) on :
And another trick..if you are taking the flex track around a curve, say a 22" radius turn, solder the two tracks together at the rail joints AFTER making sure that the floating rails for both pieces are on the inside of the curve. When you bend the track around, one rail will be shorter than the other. But you simply tack it down then cut the longer rail back. The soldered joints will give you a very nice smooth connection without a kink. Depending on how tight the curve is, you may have to trim the tie details back several inches. I use a very sharp x-acto and cut very carefully. Enjoy
John
Posted by Shay2 (Member # 553) on :
Hi Richy, If you use an electric Dremel tool with a cut off disk, which most hardware's carry for as little as $15.00, cutting rails and tie's and trimming to fit is a snap. I just finished my layout using Flex trac and found it very easy to work with. Another trick you might use is to slide the "moveable" rail back a few inches, exposing just the tie's, on one side. Then slide the joining rail from the next track section into those tie's. What you end up with is a staggered joint, so that the end of each rail isn't directly across from the other. This will give strenth to the connected track pieces and works really well when making a smooth curve. I waited till I had the track thumb-tacked down in a few places before soldering. Then I soldered it. Remember if you use solder,(and its not necessary) don't get any on the inside of the rail as it may interfere with the flange of the wheels. Also, depending on your bench material you may need to allow for expansion and contraction and nailing and soldering every joint might cause track buckling. I left every third section unsoldered and just used track joiners. Good luck, Rich
Posted by JMH (Member # 331) on :
One other point. If you fully solder and get solder on the inside rail, just use that same Dremel tool with the cutting disk to grind the solder down to match the rail shape on the inside.
