Hello all, just joined today because I'm planning on building an HO "Shelf" layout around the perimeter of my homeoffice above the door.
Room is 10x12 and I'll be going through the closet.
Any tips will be greatly appreciated, and I'm specifically looking for shelf brackets with hidden or minimal supports and hardware. It has to "look nice" or I'll never hear the end of it from my wife.
thanks
------------------ JoeS.
Posted by Mike Smith (Member # 447) on :
I used 3 inch brass "L" brackets to hold up 1x4 and 1x6 oak wood (lightly stained and varnished). Put the brackets on the bottom of the wood and "L" them up the wall, not down the wall.
You might be able to create a "rabbit" in the side of the shelf that the "L" bracket would slip into, making the support bracket virtually invisible.
Posted by johnnc (Member # 1653) on :
I am building a very similar layout. My room is 18' x 14' and I used 1 x 8 vertical grain redwood with a light oak stain. I used 4" L brackets in a traditional fashion (angle down the wall). I then made corbels (wooden brackets) from 2 x 8 vertical grain redwood. I then used a dado blade on a table saw and "notched" the back of each corbel so it would cover the L bracket and be flush to the wall. It looks great and also adds support for the shelf. On one 18' wall, I have only 3 brackets. The corners are glued together with Liquid Nails and a piece of trim covers the seam. Hope this helps.
Posted by scavoman (Member # 1629) on :
Thanks guys for the feedback. Both posts have tips I can incorporate into my plans. Really appreciate it!!!
JoeS
Posted by Mr. Toy (Member # 311) on :
quote:Originally posted by mikesmith: I used 3 inch brass "L" brackets to hold up 1x4 and 1x6 oak wood (lightly stained and varnished). Put the brackets on the bottom of the wood and "L" them up the wall, not down the wall.
That is exactly what I did Those brass L brackets are cheap, and when mounted upwards look darn good. Nice looking brackets can easily run $4-$5 each, and that adds up fast.
I would add that I cut a small notch into the back of the shelf to accomodate the slight curve in the metal. This allows the shelf to go flush with the wall.
[This message has been edited by Mr. Toy (edited 05-16-2002).]
Posted by Mike Smith (Member # 447) on :
Mr. Toy: I left the slight gap against the wall so I had someplace to run the wire. I also used 3/4 inch oak plywood at the corners and have a 4 foot, 90 degree radius at 3 of the corners. That wouldn't work in the kitchen, so I did about a 35 degree turn, then a straight section, then about a 55 degree turn into my bridge. I run Walthers Amtrak Superliners, so I needed the large radius curves. (No problems with de-railing!)
PS: De-railing at 83 inches above the floor on a 1x4 piece of wood, will be a problem!
Posted by Mr. Toy (Member # 311) on :
For my wiring I cut a small piece off of one corner to make a triangular gap between the shelf and the wall to run the wire through to the surface. To each his own.
------------------ Trust God, love your neighbor, and never mistake opinion for truth. -Mr. Toy