This is topic Some advice on DCC ??? in forum Electronics and DCC at RAILforum.


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Posted by Frank (Member # 4043) on :
 
I was heavy into HO model railroading about 15 years ago. Had to take down my layout (20x20) due to a job transfer. Power, rolling stock and many structures have been preserved. It is time to get back in. As I read new issues of Model Railroader, etc... I see that technology has come a long way. All my locomotives are a good quality Atlas from the late 80's early 90's. Most of the rolling stock is Athearn. I was using MRC Tech II 2400 (2) to power my railroad.

Can anyone help me...

I am reading about DCC. I understand that this requires locomotives to have some form of decoder. Just a few questions...

1. Does this eliminate the need for cumbersome wiring (like was done in the old days)?

2. Do I still need to use my old MRC 2400's to run my old locomotives (prior to conversion- if they even can be converted)?

Any help is appreciated. [Confused]
 
Posted by Randy Rinker (Member # 4100) on :
 
DCC eliminates most of that maze of wires you needed for multipel train control block wiring with DC power. One thing that can;t be helped is the reverse loop. But with DCC, since the 'polarity' on the rails has no effect on which way the loco runs, you can change that 'polarity'* at will. To that end, there are black box devices called 'auto reverse controllers' that do this for you. The loop is gapped in two places, in both rails, just like DC. But, power for the loop is fed into the auto-reverse and then to the isolated section of track. All you have to do is remember to throw the turnout - and even that can be automated if you really want.
Some DCC systems can run a single unconverted loco at a time using address 00. The motors will make a rather annoying buzz when doing this, btu as long as you keep them moving, there isn't really much problem (some may disagree, but I've run quite a few different brands of locos without a problem - remember to keep it moving, not let it stand there!). The big exception are those coreless motors used in high end equipment or with the really fancy repowering kits (the basic repowering kits like Helix Humper aren't these sort of motors). I'm talking about ones like the "Micro-Mo" brand. Those WILL be damaged if run unconverted, they can't dissipate the heat buildup in the motor.

* I put 'polarity' in quotes because with DCC, the correct term is 'phase' since the signal is a square wave AC. Functionally it's stillt he same - the phase of the loop power must match the phase of the main line where the loco is crossing the gaps.

--Randy
 
Posted by tstage (Member # 4112) on :
 
Frank,

I only got into DCC at the beginning of this year. I purchased one of the inexpensive command stations and run my 4 x 8 layout with only two wires. That's it! I've had no problems so far. Eventually, I'd like to wire it legitimately with a power buss and feeders but I need to finalize my desgin before I dod that.

My current system is only rated at 1-amp output so I can only run 2-3 "newer" locomotives at a time. If and when you switch over to DCC, you can still use your MRC Tech II to run your accessories. Or, depending on what DCC system you get (e.g. Digitrax Zephyr), you can use your Tech II as an additional trottle by plugging it into the command station.

Frank, you won't regret converting to DCC - except if you have a heap of locomotives to convert. I highly recommend it! [Cool] It's so nice not having to deal with blocks and switches. You run your train rather than your layout.

I know Randy from another forum. He's the guy to listen to when it comes to DCC questions and advice. He won't steer you wrong.

Tom
 


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